Kathmandu itinerary: 1, 2 and 3 days

Match the itinerary to the days you actually have on the ground, not the days you are in Nepal. Arrival and departure days are usually half-lost to the airport, traffic and paperwork.

If Kathmandu is a stop before a trek, two days is enough to see the big three and buy or rent gear. If it is the whole trip, three days lets you add one valley town without rushing.

Start at Kathmandu Durbar Square before 10am, when the light is better and the tour groups have not arrived. The ticket office is at the main gate; the fee covers the square and the museums inside. Allow two hours for the courtyards, the Kumari house and the temple plinths.

Walk or take a short taxi to Thamel for lunch. This is the lodge and trekking-shop district, useful for gear, maps and a SIM or eSIM setup. In the afternoon take a taxi to Swayambhunath, the hilltop stupa west of the centre. The climb is 365 steps from the east side, or you can arrive by road at the top and walk down.

Finish with dinner in Thamel or Patan if you have energy left. Keep the evening light: the next two days involve more walking than they look.

Go to Pashupatinath early. The temple itself is closed to non-Hindus, but the riverside ghats, the cremation platforms and the terraces on the east bank are open with a ticket. Two hours is enough. Dress modestly and do not photograph cremations without asking.

From Pashupatinath, take a taxi to Patan, about 30 minutes depending on traffic. Patan Durbar Square has the best museum in the valley, in the old palace, and the surrounding lanes are full of metalworkers and craft workshops. The ticket usually includes the museum; check at the counter.

Return to Kathmandu in the late afternoon, or stay in Patan for dinner. Patan is quieter than Thamel and a reasonable place to sleep if you prefer a calmer base.

Boudhanath is best in the morning, when pilgrims walk the kora clockwise and the butter lamps are being lit. The stupa is the largest in Nepal and the surrounding lanes have Tibetan monasteries, cafés and shops. Allow two hours including a slow circuit and breakfast on a rooftop.

From Boudhanath, take a taxi to Bhaktapur, 45–60 minutes east. Bhaktapur is the best-preserved Newar town in the valley, with Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square and the pottery square. Give it three hours minimum; many travellers stay a night instead of returning to Kathmandu.

If you would rather not travel on day 3, swap Bhaktapur for a half-day in Patan plus an afternoon of shopping and a massage in Thamel. That version suits anyone flying out the next morning.

Entry tickets are the main fixed cost and are paid in cash at each gate. Transport is the variable: a taxi across the city is roughly NPR 300–800, and a full day of hopping between sites can reach NPR 2,000–3,000 if you do not negotiate or use an app.

Food and lodging sit outside this budget. Thamel has the widest range, from hostel dorms to mid-range hotels; Patan and Boudhanath are quieter and often better value for the same money.

Traffic is the biggest threat to any itinerary. A 6 km hop can take 45 minutes in the late afternoon, so group sites by area rather than zig-zagging across the city. Mornings are consistently faster.

Buy or top up a local SIM or eSIM on day 1 so you can use a ride-hailing app and maps. Cash is still king at ticket gates and small stalls; ATMs in Thamel and Patan are reliable but can run out on holidays.

Check the festival calendar before you fix dates. Dashain and Tihar close some businesses and fill transport, while other festivals add processions and crowds around Durbar Square and Pashupatinath.