India etiquette and culture: dos, don'ts and local customs

Etiquette does not change with your passport, but the practicalities around it do: how you dress for the season, what you carry for temple visits, and what you should budget for tips and guides. The table below sets out the variables that matter most for a first trip.

A namaste — palms pressed together at chest height with a slight nod — works everywhere and needs no contact. A handshake is common in business and among younger people in cities. Some women, particularly in more traditional areas, prefer not to shake hands with men; wait to see if a hand is offered. "Namaste" and "namaskar" are both understood, and in the south you will also hear "vanakkam" in Tamil and "namaskaram" in Malayalam.

Personal space is often smaller than in the US or northern Europe, and queuing can be a matter of proximity rather than a line. Standing too far back at a ticket window can mean being overtaken. Physical contact between strangers is limited: avoid touching someone's head, and do not point with a single finger — use an open hand or a nod. Feet are considered the least clean part of the body, so keep them off chairs, tables and people, and step around someone seated on the floor rather than over them.

Light, loose clothing that covers shoulders and knees is the easiest default, and it is required at most temples, mosques and gurdwaras. Women often carry a large scarf or shawl to cover their head and shoulders; men may be asked to cover their head at a gurdwara. Leather belts, wallets and shoes are not allowed inside some Jain temples, and many Hindu temples ask you to leave shoes at the entrance for a small fee or free.

At a Sikh gurdwara, cover your head, remove shoes and wash your hands before entering; the free community kitchen, the langar, is open to everyone and it is polite to accept a little. At mosques, women usually cover their head and both sexes remove shoes; some restrict entry to Muslims at prayer times. At Buddhist sites, do not turn your back on a Buddha image for a photo, and never touch a monk, including a woman handing something to one. Photography rules vary: many temples ban cameras inside the sanctum, and some charge a camera or phone fee at the gate. Rules differ from site to site, so read the sign at the entrance and follow it.

In much of India, eat and pass items with your right hand; the left is used for hygiene, and using it to give money, food or a business card can cause offence. Many meals are eaten with the fingers: use the fingertips, mix rice and curry on your plate, and do not lick your fingers or put your whole hand in your mouth. Breads such as roti and naan are torn with the right hand. If you prefer cutlery, ask; it is usually available in cities. Habits vary by region and household, so watch what people around you do.

Beef is avoided by many Hindus and pork by many Muslims, so it is safer to ask what is in a dish than to assume. Vegetarianism is widespread and well catered for; "pure veg" signs mean no meat, egg or fish. Alcohol rules vary by state and district and change from year to year, so check the current position for the state you are visiting before you plan around a bar. When paying, small notes are useful for autos, chai and tips, and card payment is common in cities but not at small stalls.

Ask before photographing people, and accept a no without pushing. Some people, especially in tourist areas, will ask for money after a photo; agree before you shoot if you intend to pay. Do not photograph military sites, airports or some bridges, and check signs at temples. Drone use needs permission and is banned in many places.

Bargaining is normal in markets and for autos and taxis where no meter is used, but not in shops with fixed prices, hotels or restaurants. Start low, stay friendly, and be ready to walk away; a fair price is one you are both content with. Gifts are usually given and received with the right hand, or both hands for something important, and may not be opened in front of the giver. Invitations to a home are a real compliment: bring sweets, fruit or a small gift from your country, and expect to be fed.

This is general guidance, not a rulebook, and India is too varied for one set of customs: Kerala, Punjab, Tamil Nadu and the northeast differ in dress, diet and language. Watch what people around you do and follow their lead.

Two practical cautions. First, touts and "guides" at stations and monuments often claim a site is closed or a ticket office has moved; check at the official counter. Second, scams around gemstones, carpets and "government" shops are common in tourist cities; buy only where you are comfortable and never under time pressure. Keep your own safety in mind at night and in crowds, and carry the address of your accommodation in writing.