Itaewon and Hannam이태원 · 한남

Feels:

International, hilly, bars and design shops

Suits:

International food, bars, the Leeum museum

Best time:

Evenings; Leeum by day

Watch out for:

Crowded alleys on Halloween weekend.

In short:

Hilly; mixed crowd; Line 6 is slow to reach the palaces.

The old city north of the Han river holds nearly everything a first visit needs: palaces and Bukchon in Jongno, Myeongdong and Namsan in Jung, Hongdae in the west. Gangnam, Seongsu and Jamsil are 20–40 minutes away by subway across the river.

Lines from the Seoul drinking guide that name this district.

• Itaewon and Haebangchon · International pubs, craft beer, LGBTQ bars (Homo Hill) · until about 02:00–05:00Steep lanes; crowd control on Halloween weekend.
• Craft beer · Korean craft breweries' IPAs and lagers · until about 00:00–02:00 · ₩8,000–12,000 (≈ US$6–9) a glassItaewon, Haebangchon, Seongsu, Yeonnam
• Cocktails · Speakeasies and hotel bars, several ranked in Asia's lists · until about 01:00–02:00 · ₩20,000–35,000 (≈ US$15–30) a drinkCheongdam, Hannam, Euljiro, Four Seasons and hotel bars

• Itaewonday: oknight: caution

  Narrow, steep alleys pack tight on Halloween and holiday weekends: follow crowd-control staff and avoid the alleys at peak times.