Magome-Tsumago Trail: route guide

The trail runs along a preserved section of the Nakasendo, the Edo-period road that linked Tokyo and Kyoto. It connects Magome, in the south of the Kiso Valley, with Tsumago to the north, crossing forest, small farms and a few roadside stretches. It is a National Historic Site of Japan and is signed in English and Japanese, with rest points and restrooms along the way.

There are very few settlements between the two towns, so treat the walk as one continuous stretch rather than a series of stops. Navigation is simple: follow the Nakasendo markers out of Magome and keep on them until Tsumago. Download an offline map before you start, because mobile signal in the forest can be patchy.

The route is short enough to walk in one go, but it splits naturally into three parts. The first climbs out of Magome past the old post-town houses and a viewing point, then drops into forest. The middle section is the quietest, passing fields and a couple of rest areas. The final stretch descends towards Tsumago, with the town appearing below the trees.

If you want a shorter day, walk only the middle section and use the bus for the rest. If you want a longer day, continue past Tsumago towards Nagiso, or start earlier in Nakatsugawa and join the trail there.

Spring and autumn give the most comfortable walking temperatures and the clearest views. Summer is humid and the forest holds the heat, so start early. Winter is possible, but snow and ice make the stone steps slippery, and hiking boots are needed; if you are unsure, take the bus between the towns instead.

Weekends and public holidays bring more walkers, especially in the middle of the day. Start before 9am if you want the trail quieter. Check local advice before setting out in winter or after heavy rain.

Most travellers sleep in Magome or Tsumago, both of which have small guesthouses and ryokan, or in Nakatsugawa, which has more hotels and train links. Staying in one of the post towns lets you walk early and see the streets without the day-trip crowds.

Book ahead in spring and autumn, and note that many small guesthouses have limited English and set dinner times. If you are walking with a pack, ask your accommodation about luggage forwarding between the towns; this is common on the route but confirm the details locally.

Wear shoes with grip, carry water and a light rain layer, and bring cash for buses, drinks and small shops. There are restrooms and rest points along the trail, but no shops in the middle section, so eat before you leave or carry food.

The route is generally safe, but some parts run beside the road. Keep to the pedestrian space and take care where the path meets traffic. In winter, check conditions and consider the bus if the path is icy.