Currency in Kenya: what to use and how to exchange

Kenya runs on cash and mobile money, with cards filling the gap in between. The shilling is the only legal tender, so prices in shops, matatus and markets are quoted in KES. US dollars appear on safari quotes, lodge bills and park fees, and many operators will take them, but you will usually get a worse rate than if you had paid in shillings.

The practical pattern for most trips: land with a small float of dollars or euros for the first taxi or SIM card, then use bank ATMs in Nairobi, Mombasa or Kisumu for the bulk of your spending money. Withdraw in KES rather than letting the machine convert to your home currency, and decline the "conversion" screen if it appears. City-centre forex bureaus and bank branches give better rates than airport desks or hotel receptions, and they are quick if you bring your passport.

Cards work at hotels, safari lodges, supermarkets, larger restaurants and fuel stations in towns. They are close to useless at market stalls, matatu stages, small shops and roadside stops, so keep a few thousand shillings on you. Visa is the most widely accepted; Mastercard is fine in cities; American Express is patchy outside top hotels.

M-Pesa, the mobile money system, is everywhere. It is built for Kenyan phone numbers and registered SIM cards, so it is not a realistic option for a short visit unless you buy a local SIM and register it. Do not count on it as your main payment method.

Tipping is expected on safari and common for porters, guides and drivers. Keep small notes for this; a US$10–20 per guest per day guide tip is the usual benchmark, and it is easier to hand over shillings or clean dollars than to find change.