Thamel

Feels:

Dense, colourful, loud, full of gear shops and cafés

Suits:

Trip logistics, gear, cafés, first nights

Best time:

Afternoon to late

Watch out for:

Hauling luggage through the lanes.

In short:

A dense visitor quarter of narrow lanes, hotels, trekking shops and restaurants; noisy at night, dusty by day.

The old city, Thamel and Durbar Square lie on the west bank of the Bagmati river; Boudhanath and Pashupatinath are about 6–8 km east; Patan is just across the river to the south; Swayambhunath sits on a hill to the west. Traffic decides every trip: allow double the map time.

This district is highlighted. Shapes follow this guide's walking areas and places, not official boundaries.

How this district's sleep area scores for five kinds of traveler, ranked against the other Kathmandu districts that have scores. Scores are this guide's 1–5 judgements.

• First visit

  2nd of 2

  Durbar Square is a 20-minute walk; others need a taxi.

  Better for this: Boudhanath

• Families

  2nd of 2

  Dust, noise and touts; better for adults.

  Better for this: Boudhanath

• Light sleepers

  2nd of 2

  Noisy at night from bars and traffic; ask for a room at the back.

  Better for this: Boudhanath

• Night owls

  best of 2

  The main bar and restaurant scene of the city.

• On a budget

  best of 2

  Wide range from dorms to boutique hotels.

What to order and what locals pay, from each eat page. Prices are estimates; check the menu.

• Dal bhat set lunch, Thamel

  The national meal: a plate of rice with lentil soup, vegetables, pickle and sometimes meat, with refills; go at lunch and choose a busy place.

  Price: A set is about NPR 350–800.

• Fire and Ice Pizzeria

  Sit-down pizza and pasta near Thamel; a reliable dinner after a dusty day, best before 19:00 or booked.

  Price: A pizza is about NPR 800–1,600 in this area.

• Thamel$

  First-timers: cafés, gear shops and taxis are a short walk away, but pick a hotel with a night desk and a door the car can reach, not a guesthouse that locks the gate.

  Rooms: NPR 1,500–3,500 (check)

  Skip this if: Noise until late and from early morning; ask for a room away from the street.

  2–4 min walk to Thamel · 18–25 min walk to Kathmandu Durbar Square

Lines from the Kathmandu drinking guide that name this district.

• Thamel bars and rooftop lounges · Bars, live music, rooftops · until about midnightThe main scene; go in a group and book your ride back.

Markets and shopping streets from the Kathmandu buying guide that name this district.

• Thamel shops and lanes · Trekking gear, pashmina, thangka, singing bowls, souvenirs · About 09:00–21:00About 9:00 AM–9:00 PM · haggling: hardThe main tourist market; quality varies, so compare a few shops before buying.
• Trekking gear (jackets, boots, sleeping bags) · Thamel; try items on and check zips and stitching · Shop hoursFakes are common; buy what you need for the trek or rent it in Thamel.
• Pashmina and woollens · Thamel and fixed-price shopsCheck the fibre: wool blends are often sold as pure pashmina.

Minutes are this guide’s typical walking and ride times (p50–p90); traffic and heat stretch them.

• Thamelday: oknight: caution

  Motorbikes in narrow lanes and touts; keep valuables in a front pocket and book a ride home.

• Quiet nights

  Noisy at night from bars and traffic; ask for a room at the back.

• Nightlife

  The main bar and restaurant scene of the city.

• Late arrival

  Restaurants and taxis until about midnight.

• Durbar Square and BasantapurWalk south-east, about 18 min
• BoudhanathCar east, about 30 min
• Patan (Lalitpur)Car south, about 30 min
• PashupatinathAbout 4.7 km away in a straight lineAbout 2.9 mi away in a straight line