Ireland in November: what to expect

November is the start of Ireland's wet, windy winter half. Expect grey skies, frequent showers and Atlantic gales, with the west coast taking the worst of it. Days are short: sunrise around 07:45 and sunset around 16:30 mid-month, so plan any outdoor sight by about 15:30.

Temperatures are mild by northern-European standards but feel colder in wind and damp. Dublin and the east are the driest part of the country; Galway, Mayo, Clare and Donegal see rain on most days, though rarely all day. Snow is uncommon at low level and usually brief when it comes.

The practical effect is on transport and access. Winter storms can close cliff paths, cancel island ferries and make exposed coastal drives unpleasant. Build in a wet-weather alternative for every outdoor day.

November is low season almost everywhere. Hotel rates in Dublin and the regional cities drop well below summer levels, car hire is at its cheapest, and you can usually book a B&B or guesthouse a day or two ahead. Tour buses have gone from the Ring of Kerry and the Cliffs of Moher.

Two exceptions. Dublin fills on weekends year-round, and from late November the Christmas lights, markets and shopping weekends push city hotel prices up. Rural areas empty out: some B&Bs, cafés and seasonal attractions close from November until spring, and a few villages have very limited evening food options.

If you want the cheapest week of the month, aim for the first half, before the Christmas season starts. If you want atmosphere, the second half is livelier but costs more in the cities.

The month has no bank holiday in Ireland, so events are cultural rather than national. Science Week runs in mid-November with talks and family events across the country. Dublin's theatre, trad music and pub session scene is at full strength, and the city's museums and galleries are free or cheap and warm.

From late November, Christmas markets and lights switch on in Dublin, Cork, Galway, Belfast and many towns, and the shopping season begins. In the countryside, the traditional music and set-dancing season moves indoors to pubs and community halls.

Dates and line-ups change each year; confirm before you travel (check).

Play to the season's strengths: cities, museums, pubs and short walks. Dublin is the obvious base, with the national museums, Trinity, Kilmainham and the theatre district all indoors. Cork and Galway work as smaller city breaks with good food and music, and both are within reach of wet-weather alternatives.

In the countryside, choose low, sheltered places: the Boyne Valley and Newgrange, Kilkenny's medieval streets, Glendalough's valley floor, and the gardens and houses of Wicklow. The south-west is milder than the west, so Kerry and West Cork towns such as Killarney, Kenmare and Kinsale are reasonable bases if you accept rain.

Avoid, or treat as weather-dependent: the Aran Islands and other ferries, the Skellig coast, exposed cliff walks such as the Cliffs of Moher, and high ground in Connemara, Mayo and Donegal. Storm days close paths and cancel sailings.

Waterproof jacket with a hood, waterproof shoes or boots, and layers you can add and remove: a warm mid-layer, a hat and gloves for windy days, and a spare pair of shoes or socks. An umbrella is close to useless in Atlantic wind.

Bring a small daypack with a dry bag or plastic liner for camera and phone, a power bank for short daylight days, and a torch or phone light for unlit rural roads and lanes after 17:00. If you plan to drive, a hi-vis vest and warning triangle are worth having; check what your rental car already includes (check).

October is still shoulder season with autumn colour and Halloween festivals, but storms begin and the school mid-term week at the end is busy. December brings Christmas markets and pub sessions, with the country shutting down on 25–26 December.

If your goal is scenery and driving, wait: May, June and September are the strongest months, and April and October are workable shoulder options. January is colder, darker and quieter than November with little to gain.