Cards, ATMs and cash in Tanzania: what to expect

Tanzania runs on cash for anything small or informal. Safari lodges, international hotels and the bigger restaurants in Dar es Salaam, Arusha and Stone Town generally take a Visa or Mastercard, and many also quote in US dollars. Outside those places, expect to pay in shillings: market stalls, curio sellers, small groceries, fuel stops on the road to the parks, and almost every tip. Acceptance changes by season and by owner, so confirm with your lodge or operator before you rely on a card (check).

ATMs are common in the main towns and at the airports, and most dispense shillings. Coverage is thin inside the parks and between towns on the coast, so withdraw before you leave the city. Withdrawal limits vary by bank and machine, so plan on several smaller withdrawals rather than one large one. Machines run out of cash, especially at month-end and on weekends, and cards are sometimes refused by a machine that looks fine. Try a second machine before assuming your card is blocked.

Card fraud is a real risk in tourist areas. Use ATMs inside bank branches or malls during the day, cover the keypad, and avoid standalone machines on the street at night. If a machine swallows your card, do not accept help from a stranger who offers to sort it out for a fee; go into the branch or call your bank.

Mobile money (M-Pesa, Tigo Pesa, Airtel Money) is how many Tanzanians move money, but it usually needs a local SIM and a local number, so it is not a practical option for a short trip (check). Bolt operates in Dar es Salaam and Arusha; whether you can pay by card in the app depends on your card and the driver, so carry shillings as well (check).

For safari, most operators quote in US dollars and expect a deposit by international transfer or card before you arrive, with the balance often settled in cash or by card at the office. Carry US dollar notes in good condition and a mix of denominations, because change for a large note can be hard to find outside the cities (check).

Carry two cards from different networks, kept in different bags, plus a cash reserve. A single card that stops working mid-safari is a serious problem when the nearest branch is hours away.

Tell your bank you are travelling, and check what your card charges for foreign cash withdrawals. A card with no foreign transaction fee and a low cash advance rate saves real money over a two-week trip.

Withdraw during the day from a machine inside a bank or a busy mall, and take enough for several days at once so you are not hunting for an ATM in a small town after dark.

Keep small shilling notes for tips, water, parking and market purchases. A TZS 10,000 or 20,000 note is far more useful than a large one when nobody has change.

Photograph your card numbers and your bank's international phone number, and store the picture somewhere other than your phone's photo roll if you can. If a card is lost, you will need those details fast.

Do not change money on the street. Use a bank, a licensed bureau de change, or an ATM, and count your shillings before you leave the counter.