Switzerland in December: what to expect

Switzerland in December splits into three quite different trips. On the Plateau — Zurich, Bern, Basel, Lucerne — it is cool and often grey, with temperatures around 2–6 °C and fog (Hochnebel) that can sit for days. The mountains above the fog are frequently sunny, which is why locals take the train up when the city turns grey.

In the Alps, Zermatt, Saas-Fee, Verbier and St Moritz are cold and dry, roughly −8 to 2 °C, with reliable snow above about 1,500 m. Lake Geneva and Ticino are milder, around 2–7 °C, but the bise wind off the lake makes Geneva and Lausanne feel raw. Daylight is short: about 8.5 hours at the solstice, dark by 17:00.

Early December is the quietest and cheapest part of the winter. Christmas markets open late in November or early December, ski lifts start turning from mid-month, and hotel rates climb through the month. The week between Christmas and New Year is the most expensive of the year in the resorts and the hardest to book at short notice.

Book mountain accommodation and any scenic train seats two to three months ahead for the holiday week. Cities are easier: Zurich, Basel and Geneva have business hotels that empty out over the holidays, so a city base plus day trips into the mountains can be cheaper than staying in a resort. Ski passes, gear rental and lessons are all at peak pricing from mid-December.

Christmas markets are the anchor of a December trip. Basel and Zurich run large ones through the month, and Montreux holds a market along the lakefront. Expect mulled wine, raclette and craft stalls; most close on 23 or 24 December.

Ski season opens in most resorts from mid-December, with high-altitude areas such as Zermatt and Saas-Fee often running earlier. New Year's Eve brings fireworks over the lakes in Zurich and Geneva and in many resort villages. Cantonal holidays differ: 25 and 26 December and 1–2 January are public holidays in most places, so shops close and some mountain transport runs a reduced timetable.

For a first December trip, pair one city with one mountain base. Zurich or Lucerne gives you a Christmas market, museums and easy rail links; from there Interlaken, Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen put you in the snow within a few hours. Zermatt and St Moritz are the most reliable for snow and sun, but also the most expensive.

If you want milder weather and fewer crowds, head to Ticino: Lugano and Locarno stay green and are about two hours from Zurich through the Gotthard base tunnel. Geneva and Lausanne suit a short city break with Lavaux vineyard walks, though the terraces are bare in December. Basel is the easiest city for a market plus a quick hop into France or Germany.

Pack for wet cold in the cities and dry cold in the mountains. A waterproof shell, warm mid-layer, hat, gloves and shoes with grip cover almost everything. Snow boots or sturdy waterproof shoes matter in resorts, where pavements are icy; cities are walkable in normal shoes if it is dry.

Add sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen for sunny days at altitude, a swimsuit if your hotel has a spa or thermal bath, and a plug adapter for Swiss type J sockets. Layers beat one heavy coat because heated trains and shops are warm. See the full packing list for a season-by-season breakdown.

January is the prime ski month, with cold, clear days in the mountains and fog on the Plateau; the World Economic Forum closes Davos for part of the month. February brings school holidays and Basel's Fasnacht carnival, which fills the city for three days.

November is the cheapest and quietest shoulder month, but most mountain lifts are closed and the Plateau is grey. October offers autumn larches in the Engadin and Valais before the lifts shut mid-month. If your dates are flexible, compare the whole year on the best time to visit page.