Split itinerary: 1, 2 and 3 days

Pick the row that matches your time. Nights are the minimum that does the city justice; a third night only pays off if you actually leave the mainland.

Start early inside Diocletian's Palace while the lanes are quiet. Walk the peristyle, the cardo and the substructures, then climb the cathedral bell tower if the view matters to you. The palace is a lived-in neighbourhood, not a museum: people live in the same walls as the cafés and shops.

Mid-morning, walk the Riva seafront and cut into the old town's side streets. Have lunch in the market area or just off the Riva, where prices drop a street or two back. In the afternoon, climb Marjan hill for the viewpoint over the harbour and islands, or swim at Bačvice if it is hot. Finish with dinner in the old town and an evening on the Riva.

One day is enough for the palace and the seafront, but not for an island. If you have only one day, do not try to fit a boat trip in; you will spend it in transit.

Day one: the palace, Riva, old town and Marjan as above. Day two: choose between a beach morning and a half-day trip to Trogir, a small walled town on the coast reachable by local bus. Trogir's old town is compact and easy on foot, and it makes a good contrast to Split's size.

If you would rather stay put, spend day two on Marjan's trails and beaches, then swim at Bačvice in the late afternoon. Two nights is the minimum the Croatia guide recommends for Split, and it fits this plan: one full day in the city, one for the surroundings.

Day three is the boat day. From Split's ferry port you can reach Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis by catamaran or ferry, and organised tours run to the Blue Cave and the Pakleni islands. Hvar town is the classic choice: a Venetian square, a hill fort and boat access to nearby coves. Brač is known for Zlatni Rat beach near Bol.

Check sailing times before you commit. Island hops cost half a day each way in practice once you add port time, so a day trip leaves a few hours ashore. If you want more than that, sleep on the island instead and treat Split as a two-night base.

A third option for day three is Krka waterfalls or a slower day around Split: the archaeological museum, the Mestrovic gallery and an afternoon swim. This suits travellers who have already seen enough boats.

Split's main sights are cheap or free to walk past; the money goes on food, ferries and tours. Accommodation is the biggest variable and rises sharply in July and August. Book ferries and summer beds ahead.

Walk the palace early or late. Cruise groups and day-trippers peak in the middle of the day, and the lanes are narrow. The same applies to the Riva in the evening: it is busiest just before and after dinner.

Split is a ferry hub, so build your itinerary around sailings rather than the other way round. If you are heading to Hvar, Korčula or Dubrovnik, check the catamaran timetable first and fit the city days around it.

Summer heat is real. Plan indoor or shaded hours for midday and swim in the late afternoon. Carry water and use sunscreen; the stone streets radiate heat.