National park · Albania

Thethi National ParkParku Kombëtar i Thethit

Base yourself in Theth village for 2–3 nights in June–September: walk the Blue Eye in an easy half day, do the Theth–Valbona pass (6–8 h) only if you have a full day and a bed booked on the other side, and skip the SH21 drive November–April when the road is closed.

Not field-verifiedChecked Sep 2026

Map to the park

Google Maps Apple Maps Street View

Directions

From where I am

Add your hotel to get directions from it. · stays in this browser; shared with the pocket card.

Area

26 km²10 sq mi

approximate

Established

1966

Best months

Jun–Sep

UNESCO

None

Rules in force · 8Non-EU visitors get 90 days in any rolling 180-day window…Mine-suspected land still exists in Bosnia and Herzegovin…

Europe ↗Non-EU visitors get 90 days in any rolling 180-day window, counted across all 29 Schengen states together — not per country; the Entry/Exit System now logs each crossing, so an overstay is detected automatically.
Europe ↗On the first Schengen entry since EES began, non-EU travellers give four fingerprints and a face photo at the border instead of a passport stamp; there is nothing to apply for or pay in advance.
Balkans ↗Mine-suspected land still exists in Bosnia and Herzegovina and in pockets of Croatia's former front line: outside towns keep to tarmac and waymarked paths, and treat red triangle signs and taped-off fields as absolute.
Balkans ↗Serbia refuses onward entry to travellers who reached Kosovo from a third country and then try to cross straight into Serbia; route Kosovo–Serbia legs through North Macedonia or Montenegro, or start the loop in Serbia.
Balkans ↗Hire cars need written permission from the rental company and valid insurance for every country on the line; Kosovo sells its own border insurance and some contracts exclude Albania, Kosovo or Bosnia outright.
Albania ↗Albania is outside the EU and the Schengen area and sets its own entry rules; check the official requirements for your passport before you book.
Albania ↗If you drive, carry your licence, rental papers and insurance proof, and expect unlit mountain roads and livestock after dark.
Albania ↗Land borders with Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Greece are used by buses; allow for queues in summer and check that your rental contract allows crossing.

At a glance

Country: Albania
Area: 26 km²10 sq mi; About 2,630 ha (26.3 km²) of village, forest and meadow; the wider protected mountain area is larger (check).
Established: 1966
Best months: Jun–Sep
Permits: Not needed
Base: Shkodër

Thethi sits at about 750 m in the Albanian Alps, ringed by peaks of 2,200–2,600 m and cut by the Shala and Kapresa rivers. The village is inside Thethi National Park, roughly 2,630 ha of beech forest, meadow and limestone, with brown bear, wolf and the country's largest lynx population in the surrounding mountains. Most visitors come for one thing: the marked pass trail to Valbona. The rest of the stay is short valley walks, the Blue Eye pool, the waterfall and the old stone tower.

Decide

Why go, which months, and what lives here when

At a glance

Status

No UNESCO listing; national park since 1966.

Size and age

26 km²10 sq mi · national park since 1966

About 2,630 ha (26.3 km²) of village, forest and meadow; the wider protected mountain area is larger (check).

This page covers the park itself. Nearest base: Shkodër.

Why go

The Theth–Valbona pass is the classic Albanian Alps day: 742 m up to a 1,814 m saddle, then down to Rragam.
Short valley walks from the guesthouses need no car and no guide.
The Blue Eye pool at Nderlysa is a one-hour walk up the river from the trailhead.
Cheap guesthouse beds and home cooking in a village of a few hundred people.

When to go

12-month verdict

JanAvoid
FebAvoid
MarAvoid
AprCaution
MayGo
JunBest
JulBest
AugBest
SepBest
OctGo
NovAvoid
DecAvoid

JanRoad closed; deep snow
FebRoad closed; avalanche risk
MarRoad usually still closed
AprRoad may reopen late in the month; snow on high trails
MayGreen valley; pass often still snow-patched
JunPass usually clear; long days
JulWarmest and busiest; book beds
AugReliable weather; afternoon storms
SepDry, quieter, good visibility
OctClear early in the month; buses wind down
NovRoad closes; snow returns
DecRoad closed

Wildlife and nature calendar

Seasons shift by weeks each year

Wildlife and nature calendar for Thethi National Park
What	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Golden eagles and other raptors over the ridgesMay–Sep	no	no	no	no	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no	no
Brown bear and grey wolf (rarely seen)Apr–Oct	no	no	no	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Lynx, in the wider mountain forestsAll year · Albania's largest population is here, but sightings are exceptional.	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes
Speckled trout in the Shala and Kapresa riversMay–Sep	no	no	no	no	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no	no

Arrive & move

Getting in, how the park is divided, and where things are

How to get there

From Shkodër

Bus from in front of Hotel Rozafa, morning departure, with extra afternoon services in summer; the road is the SH21 via Koplik and Thore pass.

3 h

Open the page →

From Tirana

Bus or furgon to Shkodër, then the Theth bus or a taxi.

5–6 h

Open the page →

From Kukës airport (KFZ)

Seasonal flights from a few European cities, then road via Shkodër or Kukës.

4–5 h

Open the page →

From Valbona

On foot over the pass, or the long road loop via Bajram Curri.

6–8 h on foot

Zones and sectors

Zones of Thethi National Park
Zone	What is there	Access
Qender-Theth village	Guesthouses, the church, the ethnographic museum and the bridge where the information centre sits.	Open; walk everywhere.
Grunas waterfall and canyon	The valley's main waterfall, a short walk from the village.	Open; rough path, care on wet rock.
Nderlysa and the Blue Eye	The Kaprre pool and the trailhead at the restaurant, up the river from the village.	Open; small parking area.
The pass and high ridges	The route over Valbona pass and the peaks above 2,200 m.	Open on foot; snow and storms close it in practice.

Sketch map

Approximate — not for navigation

Village and information centre coordinates from published listings; the pass saddle is approximate, for orientation only.

1Theth village centre · Village≈42.396, 19.774Map ↗
2Thethi National Park Information Centre · Headquarters≈42.395, 19.774By Theth bridge at Qender-Theth.Map ↗
3Grunas waterfall and canyon · Viewpoint≈42.377, 19.795Map ↗
4Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), Nderlysa · Trail≈42.364, 19.746Map ↗
5Valbona pass saddle · Summit≈42.420, 19.810Approximate; the marked route runs north from the village.Map ↗

See & do

Caves, trails and wildlife, with how hard each is and whether it needs booking

Top experiences

TrailsHard6–8 hTheth–Valbona passStart on the track north of Hotel Jezerca; marked red and white, 742 m up to a 1,814 m saddle, then down to Rragam and Valbona.

TrailsEasy2–3 h returnBlue Eye (Syri i Kaltër / Kaprre)Trailhead at the restaurant in Nderlysa, following the river upstream; the pool is bitterly cold and the rocks are slippery.

TrailsEasy1–2 hGrunas waterfall and canyonShort walk from the village; the canyon path is rough underfoot.

CultureEasy30 minLock-in TowerStone tower tied to the bloodfeud tradition; a small local charge may apply (check).

CultureEasy30–45 minThethi Ethnographic MuseumVillage house museum; opening is irregular outside summer (check).

Practical

Fees, permits, rules, where to sleep and what can go wrong

Entry fees and permits

EUR ranges · check

Fees for Thethi National Park
Item	Range	Per	Note
Park entry	Free	person	No gate fee is charged at the village entrance; the info point is free to use (check).
Guesthouse bed, half board	EUR 20–40	person per night	2026 estimate; dinner and breakfast usually included.
Shkodër–Theth bus	EUR 8–12	person one way	2026 estimate; pay the driver.
Taxi Shkodër–Theth	EUR 90–110	car	2026 estimate; agree the price first.
Local guide, day rate	EUR 40–80	group	2026 estimate; arrange through a guesthouse or the info point.

Ranges, not quotes: fees change without notice. Check with the park or your operator · checked Sep 2026.

Park entry no permit

No ticket is issued at the village; the AKZM information centre by Theth bridge is the official contact point.

Theth–Valbona pass no permit

No permit, but tell your guesthouse you are walking it and confirm a bed in Valbona or Rragam before you set off.

Park rules

Drones, guides, camping and more

Road closure: The SH21 from Thore pass to the village is closed from November to April; do not attempt it in snow, ice or heavy rain.
Camping: Tents can be pitched on meadows and on land offered by families; facilities are basic, so bring your own gear and carry out rubbish.
Fires: No open fires in forest or dry meadow; use guesthouse stoves.
Livestock and dogs: Close gates, keep distance from shepherd dogs and do not approach grazing animals.
Litter: There is no collection on the trails; take everything back to the village.

Where to stay

In the park

Guesthouses in Qender-Theth

Simple rooms with dinner and breakfast, mostly €20–40 per person; book ahead in July and August.

In the park

Nderlysa and the valley floor

A few guesthouses closer to the Blue Eye trailhead.

Near the park

Shkodër

Full range of hotels and hostels, 3 h away by bus, for the night before or after.

Safety

The SH21 drive high

Expect a narrow, winding road above a ravine; do not drive it in severe weather or after dark, and check the pass is open before leaving Koplik.

Weather change on the pass high

Start early, carry rain shell and warm layer, and turn back if cloud drops or wind rises; phone signal is patchy.

Slippery rock at the Blue Eye medium

Do not jump in; the water is near-freezing and the surrounding rock is slick.

Getting lost on side trails medium

Stick to the red-and-white marked routes or take a local guide; several paths look alike in beech forest.

Accessibility

The village lanes and the church square are walkable but unpaved and uneven.
The Blue Eye and Grunas paths are rough and not suitable for wheelchairs or limited mobility.
The pass trail is a full mountain day and not accessible.

Visiting lightly

Pay guesthouses and shops in the village rather than bringing everything from Shkodër.
Carry out all rubbish; there is no trail collection.
Keep to marked paths to limit erosion in the beech forest.
Do not book or join hunts or wildlife trips; the park's large mammals are protected.

Questions people ask

How much does it cost to enter Thethi?

There is no gate fee at the village entrance, so entry is effectively free. You pay for a bed (about €20–40 per person with dinner and breakfast), the bus from Shkodër (about €8–12) and any guide you hire.

What are the best hikes in Thethi?

The Theth–Valbona pass is the main one: 6–8 h, marked red and white, starting on the track north of Hotel Jezerca. For something shorter, the Blue Eye at Nderlysa is about an hour each way, and Grunas waterfall is a 1–2 h walk from the village.

When is the best time to visit Thethi?

June to September. The road is closed from November to April, and the pass often holds snow into May. July and August are warmest but busiest, so book a bed; September is drier and quieter.

Can I drive to Thethi?

Yes in the open season. The SH21 from Koplik via Thore pass is paved but narrow and winding above a ravine, and 2WD cars manage it. It is closed November to April and dangerous in snow, ice or heavy rain.

Do I need a guide for the pass?

No permit or guide is required, but tell your guesthouse your plan, start early and have a bed confirmed in Valbona or Rragam. Signal is patchy and the weather changes fast.

How do I get to Thethi without a car?

Take the bus from in front of Hotel Rozafa in Shkodër, morning departure, with extra afternoon services in summer. The ride takes about 3 hours.

Deep dive

Every source; fees and rules change, so check before you go