Prague
West bank of Vltava, Prague: neighborhood guide
Stay on the west bank if you want quieter streets, cheaper beds and easy tram or metro access to the centre; skip it if you want to walk to Old Town Square in five minutes. Base in Smíchov or Anděl for nightlife and transport, Dejvice for calm and the airport line.
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Key facts
- Best for
- Cheaper stays, local bars, tram and metro links without Old Town crowds
- Main hubs
- Anděl (metro B) in Smíchov; Dejvická (metro A) in Dejvice; Zličín (metro B) for Praha 13
- Walk to Old Town
- About 25–35 min from Anděl over Most Legií or Palackého most; 10–15 min by tram
- Airport
- Bus 119 from Dejvická to Václav Havel Airport, roughly 25 min (check current timetable)
- Typical bed price
- Hostel dorm from about 500–900 Kč, mid-range double 1,800–3,500 Kč (2026 estimate)
- Watch out
- Some blocks around Anděl and Smíchov are busy roads and offices, not old-town scenery
- Good with
- Trams 9, 12, 20 and 22 along the river; night trams run all night (check)
What the west bank is like
The west bank means everything on the left side of the Vltava outside the Castle and Lesser Town: Smíchov and Anděl, Dejvice, Střešovice, Břevnov, Košíře and the outer estates of Praha 13. It is a working city, not a postcard. You get office towers, tram junctions, supermarkets, beer halls full of locals and a few strong sights, with the river and Charles Bridge a short ride away.
Smíchov is the busiest part, built around the Anděl junction with two shopping centres, a cinema and late bars. Dejvice is greener and quieter, close to the castle at Hvězda and the airport bus. Střešovice and Břevnov are residential and hilly, good for a tram ride and a monastery. Further out, Zličín and the Praha 13 estates are plain but cheap and well connected by metro B.
| Area | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Smíchov / Anděl | Busy, commercial, nightlife | Cheap beds, bars, tram and metro B |
| Dejvice | Quiet, residential, university | Calm nights, airport bus, families |
| Střešovice / Břevnov | Leafy, hilly, local | Longer stays, tram 22 sights |
| Praha 13 / Zličín | Outer estates, metro B | Lowest prices, parking, day trips west |
Should you stay here?
Yes if price and quiet matter more than walking out of your door into the old town. A tram from Anděl reaches Národní třída in about 10 minutes and Old Town Square in 15–20, and the metro B line runs to Můstek in two stops. You trade a little travel time for lower rates, bigger rooms and streets that are not entirely tourism.
No if this is a short first visit and you want to walk to Charles Bridge, Old Town and the Castle without planning tram routes, or if you want the historic lanes outside your window. In that case the Old Town, New Town or Lesser Town sides suit you better. Also think twice if you dislike tram noise or busy roads: parts of Smíchov are loud.
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Cheaper hotels, hostels and apartments than the centre | Most sights need a tram or metro ride |
| Direct metro B at Anděl, metro A at Dejvická | Anděl and Smíchov have heavy traffic and offices |
| Local beer halls and cafés with local prices | Less old-town atmosphere and fewer river views |
| Good for families, longer stays and parking | Outer estates like Praha 13 feel far from the centre |
| Easy airport bus from Dejvická | Night trams can be noisy on main streets |
Eating and drinking
The west bank is where Praguers eat on ordinary nights. Around Anděl and along Nádražní you find Czech pubs with tank beer, Vietnamese and Asian places, burger joints and late-night kebab. Dejvice has university cafés, bakeries and a few good lunch spots near the technical university. Břevnov has the monastery brewery, a long-standing stop for a meal and a beer after a walk.
Prices here are usually lower than in the Old Town for the same plate. Lunch menus on weekdays are the best value. If you want a specific pub, book or arrive early on Friday and Saturday; the good ones fill with locals.
- Czech pub food: svíčková, goulash, roast pork with dumplings
- Tank beer and small breweries in Smíchov and Břevnov
- Vietnamese pho and bánh mì around Anděl and Sapa market
- Weekday lunch menus, roughly 150–250 Kč (2026 estimate)
Getting around and into the centre
Trams are the main tool. Lines 9, 12, 20 and 22 run along the river and cross to the east bank; tram 22 also climbs to the Castle and continues to Střešovice and Břevnov. Metro B stops at Anděl, Karlovo náměstí and Můstek, so you can reach the centre in minutes. Metro A at Dejvická and Hradčanská links the north-west and the airport bus.
Buy a timed ticket for the metro, trams and buses and validate it on first use; a 30-minute ticket covers most hops, a 24-hour pass pays off if you ride more than three times a day (check current fares). Night trams run through the night from the centre. Taxis and ride-hailing work, but agree the price or use the app.
- Anděl (metro B) to Můstek: 2 stops, about 5 min
- Anděl to Old Town Square: tram 9 or 12, about 15–20 min
- Dejvická (metro A) to Malostranská: 3 stops
- Dejvická to the airport: bus 119, about 25 min (check)
- Tram 22: river, Lesser Town, Castle, Střešovice, Břevnov
Questions people ask
Is West bank of Vltava a good area to stay in?
Yes for cheaper rooms, quieter nights and easy tram or metro access; no if you want to walk to Old Town and Charles Bridge in a few minutes. Smíchov and Anděl are the most convenient bases, Dejvice the calmest.
What is there to do in West bank of Vltava?
Villa Müller in Střešovice, the National Technical Museum and Trade Fair Palace gallery, DOX in Holešovice across the river, the Hvězda summer palace and White Mountain battlefield, the Břevnov monastery, and the riverside paths and beer gardens along Smíchov.
How do I get to West bank of Vltava?
Metro B to Anděl for Smíchov and Praha 5, metro A to Dejvická for Praha 6, metro B to Zličín for Praha 13. Trams 9, 12, 20 and 22 cross the river from the east bank. From the airport, bus 119 runs to Dejvická.
Is it cheaper than staying in the Old Town?
Usually yes. Hostel dorms and mid-range doubles on the west bank often cost less than equivalent rooms in the Old Town or Lesser Town, and food and beer in local pubs are cheaper too.
Is the west bank safe at night?
It is generally as safe as the rest of Prague. Take the usual care around Anděl and tram stops late at night, watch your bag on crowded trams, and use official taxis or ride-hailing apps.
Deep dive
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