Center City East, Philadelphia: neighborhood guide

Center City East is the densest part of Philadelphia: City Hall at Broad and Market, the Pennsylvania Convention Center, Reading Terminal Market, Chinatown, Washington Square West and the Gayborhood all sit inside it. Streets are busy through the working day and stay active in the evening around 13th Street and Chinatown.

The housing stock is old and vertical. Washington Square West is where you see the city's native "trinity" house: two to four floors, one room per floor, linked by a spiral stair. The small streets above Pine, such as Quince Street, are lined with them. Antique Row on Pine Street and Mid-Town Village are the two shopping strips.

Washington Square itself holds the tomb of the unknown Revolutionary War soldier. City Hall, finished in 1901, is 167 m to the top of the William Penn statue and had a paid tower tour with an observation deck (check current access). The African American Museum in Philadelphia is at 7th and Arch, and the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts is a few blocks west.

Yes for a first trip of two to four nights, especially if you are arriving by train or attending something at the Convention Center. You can reach Reading Terminal Market, Chinatown, the historic district and the museum row on foot or with one short subway ride, and you do not need a car.

No if you want quiet. Market Street and the blocks around 13th Street carry traffic and late-night noise, and hotel rates spike during convention weeks. Travellers who want calmer evenings, more restaurants at street level and easier access to 30th Street Station often prefer Center City West around Rittenhouse Square.

Book early for convention dates and check the Pennsylvania Convention Center calendar before you fix your nights.

Reading Terminal Market is the obvious first stop: a covered market with dozens of counters, best at lunch on a weekday when everything is open. Chinatown runs from about 8th to 11th Street between Vine and Market, with restaurants, bakeries and gift shops; the Friendship Arch stands at 10th and Arch. Expect milk tea, egg tarts, pork and steamed buns from the bakeries.

Washington Square West and the Gayborhood hold most of the sit-down restaurants and bars, concentrated around 12th and 13th Streets between Pine and Walnut. Budget for US tax added at the till and a tip of 18-22% at sit-down places.

Jefferson Station, on the SEPTA Regional Rail system, sits under Market Street between 10th and 12th; the main entrance is at 12th and Filbert. It connects to the airport line and the suburbs.

The Market-Frankford Line runs under Market Street with stops at 8th, 11th and 13th Street; 13th Street connects free to the Broad Street Line and the Subway-Surface Trolleys. The Broad Street Line runs along the western edge of the district at Race-Vine, City Hall, Walnut-Locust and Lombard-South. The Broad-Ridge Spur serves Chinatown at 8th and Race and 8th Street at Market, running Monday to Saturday 6am-9pm with no Sunday service (check).

From 30th Street Station, take the Market-Frankford Line or a Regional Rail train to Jefferson; the ride is short. Walking across the district from City Hall to the historic district takes about 20 minutes. Fares and passes are on the SEPTA site (check current prices).