National park · United Kingdom
North West Highlands Geopark
There is no gate and no fee: drive the A835/A837 coast and spend your time at Knockan Crag (30–60 min), the Bone Caves walk (1.5–2 h) and one big hill such as Suilven or Stac Pollaidh; come May–June or September for midges and weather, and skip July–August if you want quiet single-track roads.
Map to the park
Add your hotel to get directions from it. · stays in this browser; shared with the pocket card.
Area
2,000 km²772 sq mi
approximate
Established
2004
Best months
May–Jun, Sep
UNESCO
None
Rules in force · 8Non-EU visitors get 90 days in any rolling 180-day window…
- Europe ↗Non-EU visitors get 90 days in any rolling 180-day window, counted across all 29 Schengen states together — not per country; the Entry/Exit System now logs each crossing, so an overstay is detected automatically.
- Europe ↗On the first Schengen entry since EES began, non-EU travellers give four fingerprints and a face photo at the border instead of a passport stamp; there is nothing to apply for or pay in advance.
- Britain and Ireland ↗Neither the UK nor Ireland is part of Schengen: days spent here do not count towards the 90/180-day Schengen limit, and a Schengen visa does not admit you to either country.
- Britain and Ireland ↗The island of Ireland runs on two currencies: euro in the Republic, pound sterling in Northern Ireland and Great Britain. Carry a card that pays in both without fees.
- Britain and Ireland ↗Both islands drive on the left. Speed limits are in miles per hour in the UK (including Northern Ireland) and in kilometres per hour in the Republic of Ireland.
- United Kingdom ↗Most visitors who do not need a UK visa now need an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) before travelling; this includes EU nationals. Irish citizens are exempt. Check the UK government site for your passport.
- United Kingdom ↗The UK is outside the EU and the Schengen area; a Schengen visa is not valid for the UK.
- United Kingdom ↗Driving is on the left; London has congestion and emissions charges for most vehicles, so do not drive in the city.
At a glance
- Country
- United Kingdom
- Area
- 2,000 km²772 sq mi
- About 2,000 km² of land between Durness and Ullapool; the boundary follows the coast and the thrust belt rather than a fence (check).
- Established
- 2004
- Best months
- May–Jun, Sep
- Permits
- For some areas
The North West Highlands Geopark is not a fenced park but a 2,000 km² slab of Caithness and Sutherland coast and mountain between Durness and Ullapool, endorsed by UNESCO as a European Geopark in 2004. Its draw is geology you can read from the road: 3-billion-year-old Lewisian gneiss, Torridonian sandstone ridges, white quartzite caps and the Moine Thrust, the fault that pushed old rock over young and forced 19th-century geologists to rethink how mountains form. There are no gates, fees or permits, almost no trees, and very few people. You need a car, waterproofs and a tolerance for midges, rain and single-track roads with passing places.
Decide
Why go, which months, and what lives here when
At a glance
Status
- Special national site · 2004UNESCO-endorsed European Geopark; the geopark status is a designation, not a protected-area boundary.
Size and age
2,000 km²772 sq mi · national park since 2004
About 2,000 km² of land between Durness and Ullapool; the boundary follows the coast and the thrust belt rather than a fence (check).
Why go
- Read the Moine Thrust at Knockan Crag, where old rock sits on top of younger rock, with a visitor centre and short trails.
- Walk to the Bone Caves above Inchnadamph: four limestone caves in a mountainside, reached in about 40 minutes from the car park.
- Climb or circle a Torridonian sandstone peak such as Suilven or Stac Pollaidh for a view over lochs and gneiss moorland.
- See Handa Island's sea stacks and seabird colony on a short ferry from Tarbet, north of Scourie.
- Drive the coast road through Durness, Scourie, Lochinver and Ullapool with beaches, cliffs and almost no traffic outside summer.
When to go
- JanAvoid
- FebAvoid
- MarCaution
- AprGo
- MayBest
- JunBest
- JulCaution
- AugCaution
- SepBest
- OctGo
- NovCaution
- DecAvoid
- JanShort days, gales, ice on high ground
- FebCold, wet, many services shut
- MarLonger days, snow on summits
- AprDrier spells, quiet roads
- MayLong daylight, midges not yet bad
- JunNear-midnight light; busiest but still quiet
- JulMidges peak; single-track roads busy
- AugMidges and school holidays; book beds
- SepMidges easing, heather out, clear spells
- OctAutumn colour, shorter days
- NovWet and windy; some places close
- DecVery short days; ice and closures
Wildlife and nature calendar
| What | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seabirds on Handa Island (guillemots, razorbills, puffins)May–Jul · Puffins are easiest in late spring and early summer; the island closes for part of the season. | no | no | no | no | yes | yes | yes | no | no | no | no | no |
| Red deer on the hillsSep–Nov · Stalking takes place in autumn; keep to paths and check local notices. | no | no | no | no | no | no | no | no | yes | yes | yes | no |
| Golden eagle and white-tailed eagleMar–Sep · Distant sightings over ridges; never approach nests. | no | no | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | no | no | no |
| MidgesJun–Aug · Worst on still, damp evenings; a head net and repellent help more than anything else. | no | no | no | no | no | yes | yes | yes | no | no | no | no |
| Salmon and sea trout in the riversJun–Oct · Rod fishing needs a local permit; rules vary by river. | no | no | no | no | no | yes | yes | yes | yes | yes | no | no |
Arrive & move
Getting in, how the park is divided, and where things are
How to get there
From Inverness
Drive the A9 north then the A835 west to Ullapool; buses also run to Ullapool and connect with the Stornoway ferry.
1.5–2 h
Open the page →
From Ullapool
Base here for Knockan Crag (13 mi north on the A835) and the coast road north to Lochinver and Durness.
Open the page →
From Durness and the north coast
A838 along the north coast to Laxford Bridge, then the A894/A837 south; single-track with passing places.
2–3 h
From Thurso and Orkney
A836 west from Thurso to Durness, or ferry from Scrabster to Orkney.
2.5–3 h
Open the page →
Zones and sectors
| Zone | What is there | Access |
|---|---|---|
| Knockan Crag and the thrust belt | Visitor centre, interpretive trails and the clearest surface view of the Moine Thrust, 13 mi north of Ullapool. | Open access; centre seasonal. |
| Inchnadamph and the Bone Caves | Limestone caves in a mountainside above the A837, with a 40-minute walk in. | Open 24 hours; free. |
| Assynt hills | Quartzite-capped peaks such as Ben More Assynt and Conival, plus Suilven and Stac Pollaidh further west. | Open; hillwalking with map and compass. |
| North coast: Scourie, Handa and Durness | Sea stacks, seabird cliffs, Smoo Cave and limestone country. | Open; ferry and cave tours seasonal. |
| Coast road and beaches | A835/A837/A838 linking Ullapool, Lochinver, Scourie and Durness, with beaches and cliffs along the way. | Public roads; single-track sections with passing places. |
Sketch map
- 1Ullapool · Town≈57.895, -5.160Map ↗
- 2Knockan Crag · Viewpoint≈58.034, -5.071Map ↗
- 3Inchnadamph Bone Caves car park · Trail≈58.108, -4.941Map ↗
- 4Lochinver · Village≈58.148, -5.240Map ↗
- 5Scourie · Village≈58.352, -5.160Map ↗
- 6Durness and Smoo Cave · Cave≈58.568, -4.750Map ↗
- 7Handa Island ferry, Tarbet · Ranger station≈58.383, -5.183Map ↗
See & do
Caves, trails and wildlife, with how hard each is and whether it needs booking
Top experiences
Practical
Fees, permits, rules, where to sleep and what can go wrong
Entry fees and permits
| Item | Range | Per | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Geopark entry | Free | person | No gates, fees or permits for the geopark itself. |
| Knockan Crag visitor centre and trails | Free | person | Free; donations welcome. |
| Bone Caves walk | Free | person | Free access 24 hours; car park at the trailhead. |
| Handa Island ferry (Tarbet) | GBP 15–20 | person | 2026 estimate; seasonal and weather-dependent. |
| Smoo Cave guided tour (Durness) | GBP 0–10 | person | 2026 estimate; the outer cave is free, the karstic section needs a guide. |
| Parking at popular trailheads | GBP 0–5 | car | 2026 estimate; some car parks ask for a donation or charge by the day. |
Ranges, not quotes: fees change without notice. Check with the park or your operator · checked Sep 2026.
Geopark access no permit
Smoo Cave karstic section permit or guide
Handa Island permit or guide
Fishing and game permit or guide
Park rules
- Access
- The Scottish Outdoor Access Code applies: you may walk over most open land, but keep away from houses, crops and stalking in progress.
- Dogs
- Keep dogs under control near livestock; dogs are not allowed on Handa Island.
- Fires and litter
- No fires on peat or dry heath; carry out all rubbish and bury human waste well away from water.
- Caves
- Do not enter the deeper cave systems without experience and the right equipment; the Bone Caves and Smoo Cave inner section are the only easy visits.
- Drones
- Check before flying: restrictions apply over reserves and near wildlife, and permission may be needed.
Where to stay
Near the park
Ullapool
The main base: guesthouses, hotels, hostels, shops and the Stornoway ferry.
Near the park
Lochinver and Scourie
Small villages with inns and B&Bs on the coast road.
Near the park
Durness and Tongue
North-coast bases for Smoo Cave and the A838.
In the park
Inchnadamph and Assynt
A few rooms and a hostel close to the Bone Caves and the Assynt hills.
Safety
Weather changing fast on open ground high
Boggy, wet paths medium
Midges medium
Single-track roads medium
Cold water and strong currents high
Accessibility
- Knockan Crag has a visitor centre and some short paths, but the ground is rough and steep in places.
- The coast road gives car-based access to beaches and viewpoints with little walking.
- Hill routes, the Bone Caves and Handa Island are not suitable for limited mobility.
Visiting lightly
- Stay in Ullapool, Lochinver or Durness and buy food and fuel locally; the area has few services.
- Keep to paths on fragile peat and heath, and do not disturb nesting birds or deer.
- Take all litter home, including food waste, and use the toilets in villages before heading out.
Questions people ask
How much does it cost to enter North West Highlands Geopark?
Nothing. There are no gates, fees or permits for the geopark itself. You pay only for extras such as the Handa Island ferry, a Smoo Cave guided tour or car parking, and those are small (2026 estimate: about £15–20 for the ferry, up to £10 for the cave tour).
What are the best hikes in North West Highlands Geopark?
For most visitors: the Knockan Crag trails (30–60 min), the Bone Caves walk above Inchnadamph (1.5–2 h) and Stac Pollaidh (3–4 h). Suilven is the classic big day but it is long and rough. All are free and unsigned in places, so carry a map.
When is the best time to visit North West Highlands Geopark?
May, June and September. You get long daylight, the best chance of dry weather and fewer midges than July and August. Winter has very short days, ice on high ground and many closed businesses.
Do I need a car to visit the geopark?
Yes, in practice. Local buses run but are sparse, often one a day, and the main sights are spread along the A835, A837 and A838. A car also gets you out of wind, rain and midges between stops.
Can I see the Moine Thrust without walking far?
Yes. Knockan Crag, 13 miles north of Ullapool on the A835, has a car park, a visitor centre and short trails that explain the thrust, where old rock lies over younger rock.
Is the geopark the same as a national park?
No. It is a UNESCO-endorsed European Geopark, a designation rather than a fenced protected area. There is no entrance, no ranger gate and no national park pass; access follows the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
Deep dive
Every source; fees and rules change, so check before you go