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Travel guide

On the trail of Kipling's Kim: route guide

Allow 10–14 days: Lahore (2–3 days), then Amritsar, Delhi, and the Grand Trunk Road east toward Varanasi and Patna, with a hill stop at Shimla if time allows. Do it October–March. Skip it if you want a single-city trip or cannot cross the India–Pakistan border; the route splits into two separate journeys.

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Updated Sep 20264 min read

Key facts

Time needed
10–14 days for the full Lahore–Patna arc; 7 days for the India-only half
Best season
October–March (cool, dry); avoid May–June heat and the July–September monsoon
Border
Lahore and Amritsar sit on opposite sides of the India–Pakistan border; the Wagah/Attari crossing is the only practical land link
Core stops
Lahore, Amritsar, Delhi, Shimla, Varanasi, Patna
Getting around
Trains for long legs, hired car with driver for hill sections
Visacheck
Separate Indian and Pakistani visas needed; apply well before travel
Budgetcheck
2026 estimate: mid-range, roughly US$60–110 per day excluding flights

Map

The route runs west to east across northern South Asia, following the Grand Trunk Road corridor for much of its length. Lahore sits in Pakistan; Amritsar, Delhi, Shimla, Varanasi and Patna are in India. The two halves are separated by an international border, so treat them as two trips unless you have both visas and a border-crossing day planned.

Coordinates below are approximate city centres, not trailheads.

Map
StopCountryApprox. coordinates
LahorePakistan31.5497, 74.3436
AmritsarIndia31.6340, 74.8723
DelhiIndia28.6139, 77.2090
ShimlaIndia31.1048, 77.1734
VaranasiIndia25.3176, 82.9739
PatnaIndia25.5941, 85.1376

Approximate.

The stages

Kim's journey in the novel runs from Lahore across northern India with the Tibetan lama, then loops through the hills and back to the plains. The modern version keeps the same spine but swaps some rail links for road, because several historic lines now cross the India–Pakistan border and no longer run as one service.

The strongest single stretch is the Grand Trunk Road between Delhi and Varanasi: flat, busy, and still the artery Kipling described. Add Shimla if you want the hill-station chapter; it is a detour north of Delhi on the narrow-gauge line from Kalka.

The stages
StageDistanceTimeNotes
Lahore → Amritsar≈50 km1.5–2.5 h by road via Wagah/AttariBorder crossing; check current opening and visa rules
Amritsar → Delhi≈450 km6–8 h by trainFrequent services; book ahead
Delhi → Shimla≈350 km10–12 h by train via Kalka, or 7–8 h by roadNarrow-gauge from Kalka; toy train is slow but scenic
Delhi → Varanasi≈800 km10–14 h by trainOvernight services common
Varanasi → Patna≈250 km4–6 h by train or roadEastern end of the arc

Distances and times are 2026 estimates; check current schedules.

When to go

October to March is the workable window. December and January are cool in the plains and cold in Shimla, with fog delays on Delhi–Varanasi rail and road routes. February and March are the most comfortable months overall.

Avoid May and June, when plains temperatures push past 40 °C, and the July–September monsoon, which brings flooding and cancellations. If you only have the India half, late October to early March still applies.

  • Best overall: February–March
  • Cool but foggy: December–January
  • Avoid: May–June heat, July–September monsoon

Where to stay

Base yourself in each city centre and travel between them by train. Lahore's old city and Gulberg both work; Amritsar's walled city puts you near the Golden Temple; Delhi's central districts cut transfer times; Shimla's Mall Road area avoids the climb; Varanasi's ghats area is the point of being there.

Book rail tickets as early as your dates allow, especially overnight Delhi–Varanasi services. For hill sections, a hired car with driver is often simpler than the toy train if time is short.

Preparation

Two visas are needed if you plan both halves: an Indian visa and a Pakistani visa. Apply well before travel and check current border-crossing rules at Wagah/Attari, which can change at short notice.

Pack for both heat and hill cold, carry oral rehydration salts, and keep a printed copy of your bookings. English is widely used in the tourism sector across both countries, but a few phrases in Urdu, Punjabi or Hindi help.

  • Indian and Pakistani visas, applied early
  • Rail bookings made as soon as dates are fixed
  • Layers for Shimla, light clothing for the plains
  • Cash in local currency; cards work in cities but not everywhere

Questions people ask

How long does On the trail of Kipling's Kim take?

Plan 10–14 days for the full Lahore-to-Patna arc, including travel days. The India-only half, from Amritsar to Patna, fits into about 7 days. Add 2–3 days if you want a relaxed pace in Delhi and Varanasi.

When is the best time to do On the trail of Kipling's Kim?

October to March. February and March are the most comfortable. December and January are cooler but bring fog delays. Avoid May and June for heat, and July to September for the monsoon.

Where should I stay along On the trail of Kipling's Kim?

Stay centrally in each stop: Lahore's old city or Gulberg, Amritsar's walled city, central Delhi, Shimla's Mall Road area, and Varanasi's ghats. Travel between cities by train, and book overnight services early.

Can I cross from Lahore to Amritsar by land?

Yes, via the Wagah/Attari border crossing, but rules and opening times change. You need both an Indian and a Pakistani visa. Check current conditions before you commit to a crossing day.

Do I need to read Kim first?

It helps but is not required. The route works as a northern India and Pakistan itinerary on its own. Reading the novel before you go makes the Lahore, Grand Trunk Road and hill-station sections easier to place.

Deep dive

Every source; changeable facts are marked check

Sources