Ghana for first-time visitors: what to know before you go

Ghana rewards a simple route. Land in Accra, spend two or three nights around Osu, Jamestown and Makola market, then take the coast road west to Cape Coast and Elmina for the castles. From there, either head inland to Kumasi for Asante history and the craft villages, or fly north to Tamale and continue to Mole National Park for walking safaris. Trying to do both Kumasi and Mole in under ten days means most of your trip is spent in a car.

Distances look short on a map and are not. Accra to Cape Coast is a drive of several hours in good conditions (check); Cape Coast to Kumasi is longer; Kumasi to Tamale is a full day by road or a short flight (check). Leave early, plan to arrive before dark, and treat any road time after sunset as a risk you can avoid. Domestic flights between Accra, Kumasi and Tamale cut the worst legs and are worth the fare on a short trip (check schedules and fares).

English is the official language, so hotels, transport and shops are usually workable in English (check how far that holds outside the cities). Prices are still negotiable in markets and for taxis (check current practice), and a small amount of haggling is expected rather than rude. Greet first — a handshake and a hello before any question — and the conversation goes better.

Cash is the practical default. Cards work in larger Accra hotels, some restaurants and supermarkets, but markets, tro-tros, small guesthouses and roadside food are cash (check). Change money at banks, licensed forex bureaux or ATMs in the cities; carry smaller notes because change is often short. Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory; 5–10% in restaurants is a normal gesture (check).

Book the first night's accommodation before you land, especially in Accra, and arrange an airport pickup or a ride-hailing app rather than accepting the first offer outside arrivals (check which apps operate). Agree taxi fares before you get in, or use a metered app where available (check).

Pack for heat and for rain in the same week. The coast is humid year-round; the north is hotter and drier. Bring a light rain shell if you travel in the wetter months, and a refillable water bottle. Sunscreen, mosquito repellent and a basic medical kit are worth the space.

Photograph people only after asking. Markets, shrines and some public buildings have rules about cameras, and a quick request avoids most problems. At the castles, take the guided tour — the guides carry the history and the context, and the visit is much weaker without them.

Do the castles in a sensible order: Cape Coast Castle in the morning, Elmina Castle after lunch, and allow time in the fishing harbours below. For Kakum's canopy walk, go early before the heat and the tour buses. In Kumasi, check whether your dates line up with Akwasidae, the Asante festival held roughly every six weeks.