Vaiaku and the lagoon front

Feels:

Flat, quiet and open, with the lagoon on one side and the government buildings on the other

Suits:

A first base: government buildings, shops, guesthouses

Best time:

06:30–08:306:30 AM–8:30 AM

Watch out for:

Midday sun.

In short:

Flat and close to everything; little shade at midday.

Everything is on Fongafale, a long thin islet that runs roughly north to south. The government centre and most guesthouses are at Vaiaku, the airstrip runs across the middle, the port and the boat jetty are at the south end, and quieter villages such as Teone and Alapi lie to the north.

This district is highlighted. Shapes follow this guide's walking areas and places, not official boundaries.

How this district's sleep area scores for five kinds of traveler, ranked against the other Funafuti districts that have scores. Scores are this guide's 1–5 judgements.

• First visit

  best of 2

  Lagoon front and government buildings on foot.

• Families

  best of 2

  Flat and safe, though with little shade.

• Light sleepers

  best of 2

  Quiet, apart from motorbikes and dogs.

• Night owls

  best of 2

  None to speak of.

• On a budget

  best of 2

  A few guesthouses; book ahead.

Opening hours and prices from each place page; (check) means typical hours, not yet verified.

• Vaiaku lagoon frontBook a time

  Walk the lagoon front in the early morning or at dusk, when the light is soft and the heat lower; carry water and small notes for the shops.

  Entry:

  Free

• Government buildings and post officeBook a time

  The small cluster of parliament, ministries and the post office at Vaiaku, the nearest thing Tuvalu has to a capital centre: a 15-minute look from the outside on a weekday morning, and a chance to buy stamps and post a card.

  Entry:

  Free

• Tuvalu Philatelic BureauBook a time

  Tuvalu's stamps and coins are sold from a small office in Vaiaku: a ten-minute stop for collectors and for a souvenir that costs little and travels well; go on a weekday morning and carry small Australian dollar notes.

  Entry:

  Free

What to order and what locals pay, from each eat page. Prices are estimates; check the menu.

• Chinese-style takeaways and noodle counters

  Small takeaways and noodle counters near the main road sell fried rice, noodles and chicken dishes at lower prices than the guesthouse dining rooms: go at lunch with small notes, and check that they are open.

• Guesthouse and hotel dining rooms, Vaiaku

  The main sit-down meals on the islet are in the guesthouse and hotel dining rooms around Vaiaku: order dinner the same morning, because kitchens cook for the numbers they expect, and expect fish, rice, chicken and simple sides.

• Local plates: pulaka, fish and coconut

  Traditional food is mostly cooked at home or for community feasts, but small stalls, church events and guesthouse hosts sometimes serve pulaka, fish and coconut dishes: ask your guesthouse what is cooked this week, and be ready to be invited to eat.

• Shops and picnic supplies

  Buy bread, tinned fish, fruit, water and snacks from the shops in Vaiaku before a boat day or an early start: stock depends on the last ship or flight, so shop early in the week and carry cash.

• Vaiaku$$

  First-timers: the lagoon front and the shops are a short walk; choose a guesthouse with a pickup from the flight and a fan or AC room.

  Rooms: A$120–170 (≈ US$80–120) (check)

  Skip this if: Few rooms: book months ahead.

  4–8 min walk to Vaiaku, government buildings & the lagoon front

Markets and shopping streets from the Funafuti buying guide that name this district.

• Shops in Vaiaku · Groceries, tinned food, bread, hardware and basics · Weekday hours; closed Sunday (check) · haggling: noStock depends on the last ship or flight.
• Tuvalu stamps and coins · Philatelic Bureau, Vaiaku · Weekday mornings (check)A small, portable souvenir.
• Groceries and essentials · General shops in Vaiaku · Weekday hoursBuy picnic supplies before a boat day.

Minutes are this guide’s typical walking and ride times (p50–p90); traffic and heat stretch them.

In the day plans: Day 1 — Lagoon front, government buildings, a 12:30 lunch table (Funafuti in 3 days)

• Lagoon at sunrise

  Light: 06:00–07:30

  Shoot low along the shore.

• Vaiaku and lagoon frontday: oknight: ok

  Dark roads and motorbikes; carry a torch and wear reflective clothes.

• Quiet nights

  Quiet, apart from motorbikes and dogs.

• Nightlife

  None to speak of.

• Late arrival

  Confirm arrival time and the pickup.

• Airstrip and terminalWalk or ride south, about 12 min
• Fongafale north: Teone and AlapiRide north, about 10 min
• Port and the south endRide south, about 15 min