What to eat and drink in France: dishes, etiquette and dietary tips

French cooking changes with the fat in the pan. Butter and cream dominate the north and west, olive oil and garlic the south, duck fat the south-west, and wine-based sauces around Lyon and Burgundy. Ordering the local speciality is almost always the better meal and the better price.

In Paris and the north, expect bistro classics: steak frites, croque-monsieur, moules-frites near the Belgian border, and pastries from the boulangerie. Normandy and Brittany run on butter, apples and seafood — galettes and crêpes, oysters, Camembert, cider and Calvados. Lyon and Burgundy serve rich meat dishes in wine sauces in bouchon restaurants: bœuf bourguignon, coq au vin, quenelles, escargots.

Alsace is German-influenced: choucroute garnie, tarte flambée, bretzels, Riesling and beer. Provence and the Riviera cook with olive oil, tomatoes and herbs — bouillabaisse in Marseille, ratatouille, socca and pissaladière in Nice. The south-west is duck country: cassoulet, confit de canard, foie gras and Basque chilli.

The cheapest good meal in France is lunch. Most restaurants post a formule or menu du jour — two or three courses at a fixed price — and it is the same kitchen that charges much more at dinner. Outside Paris, €15–25 for a two-course lunch is a realistic band; in central Paris, €20–30. A single main course à la carte runs higher, and a serious bouillabaisse in Marseille is a different category, often €60 or more per person.

Bakeries and markets cover the cheap end: a sandwich or quiche from a boulangerie, a slice of pizza or a crêpe from a stand. Supermarkets sell bread, cheese, ham and wine for a picnic at a fraction of restaurant prices. Cafés charge most for the seat, not the coffee — a coffee at the counter costs less than the same coffee at a table on the terrace.

Prices below are 2026 estimates and vary by city and neighbourhood.

Meals run on a fixed clock. Breakfast is a pastry and coffee, often standing at a counter. Lunch is the main meal for many people and runs roughly 12:00–14:00; after that, kitchens close and you are limited to cafés and snack food until dinner. Dinner starts at 19:30 or later, and in smaller towns many restaurants shut one or two days a week — Monday and Sunday evening are common closures.

In a restaurant, you are usually seated and served at your own pace; asking for the bill is normal, as it will not be brought unasked. Service is included in the price by law, so a tip is optional: rounding up or leaving small change is standard, and 5–10% is generous rather than expected. Bread is free and refilled. Tap water is safe and a carafe d'eau is free — asking for it is normal, not stingy.

Reservations matter for popular places and for groups. Walk-ins work best at lunch and early in the evening.

Wine is part of the meal and cheap in supermarkets; a carafe of house wine in a restaurant usually costs less than a bottle. Regions have their own: cider and Calvados in Normandy and Brittany, Riesling and beer in Alsace, rosé in Provence, reds in Bordeaux and Burgundy. Beer is common in the north and in Alsace; pastis is the southern aperitif.

Coffee is espresso by default — asking for un café gets you a small strong one. Un café au lait or un crème is the milky version, usually a breakfast drink. Hot chocolate and tea are easy to find in cafés. Tap water is safe to drink across France; bottled water is sold everywhere but unnecessary.

Traditional French cooking is built on animal fat, so vegetarian travellers should plan rather than improvise. Cities have vegetarian and vegan restaurants, and many modern bistros offer a vegetable main; in a rural restaurant the options may be a salad, an omelette or a plate of cheese. Ratatouille, socca and vegetable sides are safe bets where they appear on the menu.

For allergies, the language barrier is the main risk. Butter, cream and cheese appear in dishes that look dairy-free; lardons and ham turn up in salads and vegetable dishes; fish sauce and anchovies hide in sauces; and many desserts contain nuts or eggs. France requires allergen information for pre-packed food and restaurants must be able to answer questions about the 14 major allergens, but staff may not speak English. Carry a written card in French naming your allergen and stating it is dangerous, and show it before ordering.

Gluten-free travellers will find pharmacies and health-food shops in cities, and supermarkets label products clearly, but restaurant staff may not understand cross-contact. Coeliac travellers should carry a French explanation card.

Food safety standards in France are high and street food is generally safe: markets, bakeries, crêpe stands and food trucks are inspected and busy, which is the main signal anywhere. The usual cautions apply to anything left warm — a sandwich that has sat in a display case all afternoon, or seafood bought from a market and carried around in summer heat. Wash fruit you buy at markets, and refrigerate picnic food quickly.

Tap water is safe to drink throughout France, including in restaurants, where a carafe d'eau is free. Bottled water is widely sold but not necessary. If you have a sensitive stomach, the more likely culprits are rich food, cream sauces and alcohol rather than contaminated water.

Opening hours follow French habits rather than tourist needs. Many shops close on Sunday and some on Monday; restaurants often shut between lunch and dinner and for one or two days a week. August is holiday month, when some independent restaurants and bakeries in cities close for two to four weeks, while coastal and mountain areas are at their busiest.

Public holidays change what is open, and some — Christmas, New Year, Easter Monday, 1 May, 14 July — close more than others. If a specific restaurant matters to your trip, check its hours the week you travel rather than trusting a listing.