First time · Delhi
First time in Delhiदिल्ली
Delhi is a dawn-and-dusk city: do Old Delhi and the Red Fort in the first morning hours, hide from the heat and the smog indoors, take the metro or an app car between clusters — and never follow a stranger's 'it is closed' story.
The honest verdict
Delhi's sights are good and far apart; the city is hot, loud, dense and, in winter, smoggy. Old Delhi is a maze, the metro is fast and cheap, and touts work the airport, New Delhi station and the main tourist streets. Four clusters cover a first visit, tied together by the metro and prepaid or app cars.
You will like
- Old Delhi food lanes
- Mughal monuments
- The metro
What wears you down
- Touts and hard sells
- Heat in May–June
- Smog Oct–Feb
From the airport
Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL)
- Fastest and cheapest
- Airport Express metro to New Delhi station, then a short car ride · about 45 min · about ₹150 (≈ US$2)
Typical ride times and fares, 2026 desk estimates (check). Last services and night options are on the gateway page.
How long to stay
- 2 days
- Old Delhi and the Red Fort, Humayun's Tomb
- 3 days
- Four clusters, mornings and evenings only
- 5 days
- Four clusters + Agra day trip + one slow day
Three mistakes to avoid
- Do not photograph military, police or metro security points.(Survive · red lines)
- Touts: the airport, New Delhi station and Connaught Place are the hot spots; use prepaid taxi counters, app cars or the metro.(Survive · safety)
- Mosques and temples: cover shoulders and knees, shoes off, ask before photographing people.(Survive · red lines)
Money and SIM
- Budget day
- ₹1,500–3,000 (≈ US$18–35) excl. bed
- Cash
- Keep ₹2,000 (≈ US$25) in small notes; withdraw at ATMs inside banks or malls in daylight; UPI needs an Indian number, so do not rely on it.
The best time to go
Feb: Mild and clearer; best month for walking.
A first day
Day 1 — Red Fort at opening, Jama Masjid, parathas, a 13:30 lunch table
Start about 07:45
Fixed point: Lunch table 13:30 (Connaught Place)
Hotel or AC café 14:00–16:30; Connaught Place at dusk.
Old Delhi lanes are best before 10:00 and after 17:00.
Timed version: Delhi in 3 days