Old Delhi, Delhi: neighborhood guide

Old Delhi is the walled Mughal city Shah Jahan laid out in the 17th century as Shahjahanabad, built around the Red Fort and Jama Masjid. Its spine is Chandni Chowk, a market street that runs from the fort's Lahore Gate west toward Fatehpuri, packed with food stalls, spice shops, silver and wedding traders, and lanes too narrow for cars.

The district also takes in Ferozabad, the 14th-century city of Feroz Shah Tughlaq to the south, with Sultanate gateways, step-wells and two Ashokan pillars he had brought to Delhi. That half is quieter and greener than the bazaar core.

Expect constant noise, dense crowds, aggressive touts near the fort, and air that is worst from late October to December. The lanes flood in the monsoon. Nothing here is calm, and that is the point for many travellers.

Stay in Old Delhi if you want to be inside the bazaar at dawn and after dark, when the crowds thin and the food stalls are at their best, and you are comfortable with basic guesthouses and a lot of street noise. It suits short stays, photographers, food-focused travellers and anyone using Delhi Junction for an early train.

Do not stay here if you want quiet, a pool, reliable hot water at any hour, or a base for spreading out across Delhi. The area has few mid-range and almost no upscale hotels; most of those sit in Central and South Delhi, 20–40 minutes away by metro. Families with young children and travellers with limited mobility usually do better elsewhere and visit for a morning.

A workable compromise: one or two nights in Old Delhi for the atmosphere, then move to a calmer district for the rest of your Delhi stay.

Chandni Chowk and the lanes off it are the reason many travellers come. Paranthe Wali Gali fries stuffed flatbreads to order; Karim's near Jama Masjid is known for Mughlai meat dishes; Gali Paranthe and the surrounding streets sell chaat, jalebi, kulfi and kebabs through the day and into the night. Eat where the queue is local and the food is cooked in front of you.

Old Delhi is a meat-heavy area: Mughlai cooking means beef, lamb and chicken, with pork rare and seafood almost absent. Vegetarian options are plentiful — parathas, chaat, paneer and sweets — but ghee and dairy are common, so ask if you avoid milk. Many stalls are run by Muslim families and close during Ramadan daylight hours; some shut on Fridays.

Tap water is not for drinking; use sealed bottles or a filter. Ice in drinks is a personal call. Go easy on raw salads and cut fruit left out in the heat.

By metro, Chandni Chowk and Lal Qila stations (Violet Line) put you at the bazaar and the fort; Kashmere Gate (Red, Yellow and Violet lines) is the interchange for the rest of Delhi and the Maharana Pratap ISBT bus terminal. Delhi Junction railway station serves the area for long-distance trains.

On the ground, auto-rickshaws and cycle and electric rickshaws cover short hops; agree the fare before you start, as meters are not used. Walking is often faster than any vehicle inside the lanes. Traffic is heavy on the main roads and the area is not designed for driving yourself.

Allow extra time on Fridays and public holidays, and around Ramadan evenings when the food lanes are at their busiest.