North, Seattle: neighborhood guide

North Seattle here means the band between 85th Street and the Shoreline border at 145th Street, plus a few blocks south of 85th facing Lake Washington. It was annexed to the city later than the rest of Seattle, and it still reads suburban: detached houses, wide arterials, strip retail and parking lots rather than a dense grid of cafés.

The neighborhoods run west to east: Crown Hill, Broadview, Greenwood, Bitter Lake, Licton Springs, Haller Lake, Maple Leaf, Northgate, Pinehurst, Victory Heights, Lake City and Wedgwood. Each has a small commercial strip, and none is a sightseeing district on its own.

Northgate is the exception in function if not in looks. It held one of the first shopping malls in the United States and is now the area's retail and transit hub, with the light rail station, buses and a rebuilt town-centre development around it. Lake City, along Lake City Way, mixes older dive bars, thrift and pawn shops and used-car lots with newer apartment buildings. Greenwood and Maple Leaf are the most residential and the easiest to like for a quiet stay.

Yes if you have a car, or if you are happy to build your day around the light rail. Hotel and motel rates are usually well below Downtown and Belltown, parking is normally free or included, and the streets are quiet at night. Northgate Station puts you 15–20 minutes from Downtown and on a direct train to Sea-Tac Airport.

No if this is your first visit and you want to walk out of your door into the city. There is no equivalent of Pike Place Market, the waterfront or the stadium district here, and evenings are low-key. If nightlife, live music or a walkable restaurant row is the point of the trip, base in Capitol Hill or Downtown instead.

It also works as a split stay: a few nights in North Seattle for parking and quiet, then a few nights central for the sights. Transit is the deciding factor. Without a car and without the light rail, the area is slow to cross.

North Seattle is not a destination dining area, but it feeds residents well and cheaply. Greenwood Avenue North and the blocks around 85th Street have the densest cluster: Vietnamese phở and bánh mì, Thai, teriyaki, taquerias, pizza and diners. Lake City Way adds Korean, Chinese and older American bars. Northgate is mostly chains plus food inside the mall and around the station.

Seattle's signature cheap meal, teriyaki, is a North Seattle staple and a good lunch stop. Portions are large and prices are lower than central neighborhoods. For coffee, expect the usual Seattle standard: espresso stands, independent cafés on Greenwood and Maple Leaf, and drive-throughs on Aurora Avenue North.

Evenings are quiet. Most restaurants close by 21:00–22:00, and bars are neighborhood places rather than destinations. If you want a late night, eat and drink Downtown or on Capitol Hill before heading back.

By light rail: Northgate Station is the hub. Link light rail adult fares are a flat $3.00 regardless of distance, children 18 and under ride free, and trains run every 8–15 minutes from about 5:00 to midnight. The 1 Line connects Northgate with the University of Washington, Capitol Hill, Downtown, the International District/Chinatown, Sea-Tac Airport and Federal Way; the 2 Line branches east to Bellevue and Redmond. Both lines split at International District/Chinatown.

By bus: King County Metro routes from Northgate include the 40 to Downtown via Crown Hill, Ballard and Fremont; the 67 and 75 to the University District; the 345 and 346 toward Shoreline; and the 61 linking Greenwood and Lake City. RapidRide E runs express along Aurora Avenue North between Downtown and Shoreline, and Sound Transit 522 runs from Roosevelt Station to Woodinville via Lake City and Kenmore.

By car: I-5 exits at Lake City Way NE, N 85th Street, N Northgate Way and NE 125th Street. Aurora Avenue North (State Route 99) is usually the fastest north–south route west of I-5. Other arterials are 15th Avenue NW and Greenwood Avenue North from Ballard, and 15th Avenue NE and 25th Avenue NE from the University District. Parking at hotels and motels is normally free; on-street parking near Northgate and Greenwood can be time-limited.

On foot: distances between neighborhoods are long and sidewalks on arterials are not always pleasant. Use the bus, a car or a rideshare for short hops, and treat the light rail as your link to the rest of the city.