The Rockaways, Queens: neighborhood guide

The Rockaways are a narrow peninsula on the Atlantic edge of Queens, reached by the A train, the Rockaway Park Shuttle, the LIRR or a ferry. The ocean side is beach and boardwalk; the bay side is marsh, water and the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge. The peninsula runs west to east through Rockaway Park, Belle Harbor, Edgemere and Far Rockaway, with Howard Beach and Broad Channel nearby on the bay.

This is residential Queens, not a resort strip. Expect low-rise streets, surfers, families, a few restaurants and bars along Rockaway Beach Boulevard, and a strong seasonal rhythm: the beach and boardwalk fill from late spring to early autumn, and winter is quiet. Rockaway Beach is the largest beach in Queens and the main draw; the boardwalk is flat and popular with cyclists and walkers.

Because it is a peninsula, everything is close: beach, bay, food and the subway are usually within a short walk or one bus ride of each other.

Stay if you want a beach base inside New York City and do not mind a long ride to Manhattan. It suits surfers, cyclists, families with a car-free beach plan, and travellers who have already done the Manhattan sights. It does not suit a first visit built around Midtown, Broadway and museums, because the commute eats a large part of the day.

The trade-off is simple: you get ocean, space and a quieter base, and you pay in travel time and in a thinner choice of hotels, restaurants and late-night options. In winter, the case for staying weakens sharply.

Food is concentrated along Rockaway Beach Boulevard and near the beach entrances. Elegante Restaurant and Pizzeria at 9201 Rockaway Beach Boulevard, near the Beach 90th Street stop, is a long-standing local pizza address; expect budget prices and a casual room (check hours).

Other options along the boulevard and at beach concessions are best treated as check-before-you-go: hours and opening dates vary, and some places trade only in the warmer months.

By subway, the A train runs to Far Rockaway and the Rockaway Park Shuttle (marked S) runs to Rockaway Park; the two meet at Broad Channel. The ride from Midtown is long — check current trip times before you commit to a hotel here. The nearest transfer between the A and other lines is Broadway Junction in East Brooklyn.

By ferry, NYC Ferry runs from the Financial District in Manhattan via Southwest Brooklyn to the Rockaway landing on Beach Channel Drive, near the Rockaway Park station. Check current fares and bike rules before travelling; the crossing is scenic and can be faster than the subway from Lower Manhattan.

By LIRR, the Far Rockaway branch serves Far Rockaway station on Nameoke Avenue; note that this station is not included in the City Ticket programme because the route leaves New York City. By bus, the B35 from Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn connects with Jacob Riis Park. On foot or by bike, you can cross the Marine Parkway–Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge from Marine Park in Brooklyn.

Once there, the beach, boardwalk and main food strip are walkable from the subway and ferry landings. For the bay side, Howard Beach and Broad Channel, check local bus routes and timings.

Rockaway Beach and its boardwalk are the core of a visit: swimming in season, biking or walking the length of the boardwalk, and watching surfers at the breaks. Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge, reached by the A or S to Broad Channel, is free and has several walking trails through marsh and water — one of the best birdwatching spots in the city.

Jacob Riis Park, at the western end, has a long beach plus pedestrian and bike paths and is the easiest beach to reach from Brooklyn by bus. Surf schools and board rentals operate in season (check).

The Rockaways are generally safe for visitors, and the eastern neighbourhoods such as Edgemere are quiet and mixed. As with any New York neighbourhood, use normal city sense at night and around the subway stations.

Howard Beach and Broad Channel are safe overall, but the source notes a level of insularity and an undercurrent of racism there that may make some people, especially those with darker skin tones, uncomfortable; weigh that if you plan to spend time in those areas. Cellphone signal can be weak on Rockaway Beach, so download maps and tickets before you arrive.