Peru in December: what to expect

December splits Peru in two. The southern Andes — Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and Puno — are in the wet season: mornings often start clear, cloud builds through the day and rain arrives in the afternoon, sometimes heavy. Nights are cold, and the Inca Trail and the train line to Aguas Calientes can be affected by landslides after sustained rain.

The central coast runs on the opposite clock. Lima, Paracas and Nazca are entering their sunny summer: almost no rain, warm days and the start of beach season. Arequipa and Colca are mostly sunny with the first short summer showers. The Amazon is hot, humid and wet, with rivers high — good for boat trips around Iquitos, less good for muddy forest trails.

Early December is one of the quieter windows of the Peruvian year: hotels in Cusco have space, Machu Picchu entry is usually still bookable a few weeks ahead, and trekking agencies are keen for business. From about 20 December that changes fast. Peruvians travel for Christmas and New Year, and international visitors arrive for the holidays, so Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Lima fill up and prices rise.

Expect medium crowds and medium prices overall for the month, with a sharp peak in the last ten days. If your dates are fixed around Christmas, book long-distance flights, Machu Picchu entry, trains and Cusco accommodation as early as you can. If they are flexible, the first half of December is the better value.

December is a religious and family month in Peru. Christmas Eve (24 December) and Christmas Day are the main celebrations, with midnight masses, family dinners and fireworks in Lima and Cusco. New Year's Eve follows a week later, with parties and the tradition of eating twelve grapes at midnight.

On 8 December, the Immaculate Conception is a public holiday and a day of processions and church services, especially in Cusco and Arequipa. In the Andes, local patron-saint festivals and dance competitions run through the month in smaller towns; dates vary by village, so ask locally. Confirm any specific event date before you plan around it.

Build the trip around the weather. Lima is at its best: sunny, warm and dry, with the malecón, museums and food scene all easy to enjoy, and beach season starting on the city's southern edge. Pair it with Paracas and Nazca on the southern coast, or head to Arequipa and Colca Canyon, which stay mostly sunny.

In the Andes, plan around the rain rather than against it. Cusco and the Sacred Valley are still worth it if you accept wet afternoons: keep mornings for ruins and markets, and leave buffer days around Machu Picchu in case the train line is disrupted. Puno and Lake Titicaca are cold and wet; go only if the festival calendar or a specific tour pulls you there. For the Amazon, December suits river-based trips out of Iquitos more than long forest treks.

Pack for two climates if you are combining coast and Andes. For Lima and the coast: light clothing, swimwear, sun hat, high-factor sunscreen and sunglasses. For Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Puno: layers, a waterproof shell, quick-drying trousers, sturdy shoes and a warm hat and gloves for cold nights.

Add a compact umbrella or rain jacket you can carry every day in the Andes, a dry bag or cover for electronics, and a refillable water bottle. Altitude is the other variable: Cusco sits high, so give yourself a slow first day, drink water and avoid heavy alcohol. See the Peru packing list for a full kit.

November is similar but slightly wetter in the Andes and quieter overall. January deepens the rainy season in the mountains while Lima stays sunny, and February is the wettest month, with the Inca Trail closed. If the Andes and trekking are your priority, aim for the dry season from May to September instead.