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Voykit pocket guide · United Kingdom
Lerwick
Leirvik
Base in Lerwick for 2 nights: it is the only town in Shetland with a full set of beds, shops and buses, and most island day trips start here.
Lerwick is the capital of the Shetland Islands and the only place in the archipelago with a real town centre, a museum, a hospital and a bus station. Most visitors use it as a two-night base and spend the days out at Sumburgh, Scalloway or the north isles. The town itself is small and walkable: Commercial Street, the museum, Fort Charlotte and the Clickimin Broch fill a wet afternoon.
- Country
- United Kingdom
- Local name
- Leirvik
- Best months
- May–Sep
- Avoid
- Nov–Feb (short daylight, storms); Up Helly Aa week books out a year ahead
- Stay
- 2 nights
Checked 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change; anything marked (check) is not confirmed.
Essentials
- Currency
- GBP
- Money
- Currency is the pound sterling (GBP, £). Cards and contactless work almost everywhere; some places are card-only.
- Daily spend
- Budget £45–75 excl. bed · Mid £75–130 excl. bed · High £130+ excl. bed (estimate; check)
- SIM and data
- EE, Vodafone (merged with Three in 2025) and O2 run the networks; prepaid SIMs sell in supermarkets, phone shops and airport vending machines, no registration needed.
- Emergency
- Police, fire, ambulance 999 · NHS non-urgent 111 · Police non-urgent 101
- Plugs
- Types G · 230 V · 50 Hz · Three-pin Type G only; European, US and Australian plugs need an adapter. Bathrooms have two-pin shaver sockets only.
- Tipping
- Restaurant with table service: 10–12.5% if no service charge is on the bill; check before adding more.; Pub or bar: Not expected; 'and one for yourself' offers the bartender a drink.; Taxi: Round up or 10%.; Hotel porter: £1–2 per bag.; Tour guide: £5–10 per person for a day tour; free walking tours expect £10–15.
- Water
- Tap water is safe everywhere. Free refills are common; restaurants will bring tap water if you ask.
- Toilets
- Public toilets are scarce and some charge 50p–£1 or are card-only. Stations, museums, department stores and pubs (if you buy a drink) are the fallback.
What things cost
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Coffee and a cake | £4–7 |
| Fish and chips takeaway | £10–14 |
| Bistro main course | £15–24 |
| Pint of beer in a pub | £5–6.50 |
| Museum or exhibition entry | Free–£3 |
| Taxi across town | £6–10 |
| eSIM or data SIM, about a week | £8–15 |
Desk estimates, checked 2026-09; check locally.
Get in
By air
- LSI · Sumburgh Airport
- 40 km south of Lerwick; Loganair from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness, Kirkwall and Bergen; Bus 6 to Lerwick takes about 60 min25 mi south of Lerwick; Loganair from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness, Kirkwall and Bergen; Bus 6 to Lerwick takes about 60 min
- LWK · Lerwick-Tingwall Airport
- 6 km north; inter-island flights to Fair Isle, Foula and Sumburgh on small Islanders, often grounded by weather; take a taxi, buses 21/23/9 pass nearby3.7 mi north; inter-island flights to Fair Isle, Foula and Sumburgh on small Islanders, often grounded by weather; take a taxi, buses 21/23/9 pass nearby
Typical fares
- Sumburgh Airport → Lerwick, Bus 6
- about £4 one way, about 60 min
- Lerwick → Bressay ferry, foot passenger
- about £3 one way, 10 min
- Taxi Victoria Pier → Holmsgarth terminal
- £8–12
Get around
The centre is walkable in 15 minutes end to end. Buses: Bus 4 hourly to Scalloway via Holmsgarth, Bus 6 hourly to Sumburgh via the Broch, Bus 1 circles town. Car hire in Lerwick is a small fleet (Europcar, Star, Grantfield, Bolts/Avis), open Mon–Sat 9AM–5PM, closed Sunday: book ahead. Taxis rank at Victoria Pier and meet the Aberdeen ferry.
See and do
Known for
- Up Helly Aa fire festival
- Shetland Museum and Archives
- Commercial Street and the harbour
- Clickimin Broch
- Knitwear and fudge shops
Day trips
| Where | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Sumburgh and Jarlshof | Bus 6 from Viking Bus Station, about 60 min, or drive the A970 south | About 1 h 15 min |
| Scalloway | Bus 4 hourly from Viking Bus Station, about 20 min | About 30 min |
| Bressay | Roll-on roll-off ferry from the town-centre harbour, about 10 min, roughly hourly | About 30 min |
| Yell | Drive north on the A970 to Toft, then the ferry to Ulsta | About 1 h 30 min |
| Unst | Two ferries: Toft–Ulsta then Gutcher–Belmont, or fly from Tingwall | 2.5–3 h |
| Fair Isle | Airtask flight from Tingwall, or the Good Shepherd ferry from Grutness | About 30 min by air |
Sleep
- Town centre (Commercial Street and Esplanade)
- Hotels, B&Bs, pubs and the museum within a 10-min walk; best for a short stay without a car.
- Holmsgarth (ferry terminal)
- Shetland Hotel is opposite the NorthLink pier; 2 km north of the centre, Bus 4 runs past hourly.Shetland Hotel is opposite the NorthLink pier; 1.2 mi north of the centre, Bus 4 runs past hourly.
- South Road and Knab Road
- Mid-range hotels and guesthouses 5–10 min south of the centre, near the Clickimin Broch and Tesco.
Phrase card
| English | Say or show |
|---|---|
| Hello | Hellostandard English; Shetland dialect is Scots-based |
| Thank you | Thank youta is common locally |
| Where is the bus station? | Where is the bus station?Viking Bus Station, north end of the centre |
| Is the ferry running today? | Is the ferry running today?check the harbour display board |
| Can I pay by card? | Can I pay by card?yes in most shops and cafés |
| Is there a table for two? | Is there a table for two?book ahead in summer |
Etiquette, safety and scams
Etiquette
- Greeting: Handshake at first meeting; 'hi' and first names quickly; avoid: Cheek kisses with strangers
- Conversation: Weather is a safe opener; understatement and self-deprecating humour; avoid: Asking about salary or class
- Queues: Join at the back; avoid: Pushing onto buses or trains before others get off
- Apologies: 'Sorry' is said constantly, even when not at fault; avoid: Taking it as an admission of blame
- Pubs: Buy rounds in a group; wait at the bar without waving money; avoid: Clicking fingers at staff
- Nations: Call Scots Scottish and Welsh Welsh; avoid: Calling the whole UK 'England'
Scams and watch-outs
- Car hire is limited and closed on Sundays: reserve weeks ahead and check the fuel and ferry rules.
- Inter-island ferries can be moved to other piers in rough weather; check the harbour display board before a day trip.
- Up Helly Aa (last Tuesday in January) sells out accommodation in Lerwick about a year ahead.
- Mobile signal is patchy on the approach roads; 5G has not reached Shetland.
- Summer daylight runs past 11PM in June, but winter gives under 6 hours of light: plan indoor days from November to February.
Lerwick is a low-crime town and safe to walk at night. The real risks are weather and distance: wind and rain change fast, single-track roads need care, and a missed last bus or ferry can strand you.
One and two days
No timed day plan for Lerwick yet. Suggested stay: 2 nights. Build a day from the list below, mornings for the big sight.
- Up Helly Aa fire festival
- Shetland Museum and Archives
- Commercial Street and the harbour
- Clickimin Broch
- Knitwear and fudge shops
Sources
Written by Voykit; facts cross-checked against these sources, last desk check 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change: check on the day.
- Shetland.org — official islands tourism site: www.shetland.org
- VisitScotland — Lerwick iCentre: www.visitscotland.com/info/services/lerwick-icentre-p333461
- HIAL — Sumburgh Airport: www.hial.co.uk/sumburgh-airport/
- ZetTrans — Shetland bus timetables: www.zettrans.org.uk/travel/public-transport/bus
- Shetland Museum and Archives: www.shetlandmuseumandarchives.org.uk/
- Historic Environment Scotland — Fort Charlotte: www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/fort-charlotte
- Historic Environment Scotland — Clickimin Broch: www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/clickimin-broch/
- Up Helly Aa — official festival site: www.uphellyaa.org/up-helly-aa-exhibition/
- Wikivoyage: Lerwick, revision 5299992 (CC BY-SA 4.0): en.wikivoyage.org/w/index.php?oldid=5299992
Pocket card
Cut along the border and keep it in your wallet. Show the local-script lines to a driver.
LerwickLeirvik
To this address, please
To this address, please
My hotel (write the name and address in the local script)
No embassies in Shetland; the nearest US consulate-general is in Edinburgh and most other countries keep embassies in London.
Print or screenshot this card: mobile signal is patchy outside Lerwick.
Voykit · checked 2026-09
Printed from Voykit (/lerwick). Written by Voykit; checked 2026-09. Estimates only: confirm prices, hours and entry rules on the day.