East, Jerusalem: neighborhood guide

East Jerusalem is the part of the city that was under Jordanian control from 1948 to 1967 and was annexed by Israel after 1967. Most foreign governments do not formally recognise that annexation, so the label is political as well as geographic. For a visitor it describes a real, walkable area: the walled Old City and the ground around it to the north, east and south.

The ancient city sat here. The City of David, just south of the present walls, is where Jerusalem began; the Ottoman walls themselves date to 1538. When the city spread outside the walls in the late 19th century, Jewish neighbourhoods mostly grew west and Arab neighbourhoods north and south — the split that still shapes the map today.

The population is roughly 260,000 Arabs and 200,000 Jews, and the area holds the first Hebrew University campus on Mount Scopus, opened in 1925. Neighbourhoods range from dense, busy commercial streets to the villages that became suburbs after 1967. It is also the part of Jerusalem where political tension is most visible; protests, closures and police activity happen here more than in the west.

Yes, if your trip is about the historic core. Hotels and guesthouses on the East side put you within a short walk of Damascus Gate, Herod's Gate, the Mount of Olives and the City of David, which means you can start before the tour buses and finish after they leave. Prices for simple rooms are often lower than equivalent West Jerusalem hotels.

No, if you want a conventional city break. East Jerusalem has fewer hotels, fewer restaurants open late, and less of the bar and café scene that makes West Jerusalem easy in the evening. The light rail links the two, but late-night options thin out fast on the East side.

A middle path works well: stay in West Jerusalem for comfort and transport, and give East Jerusalem two or three full days on foot. If you do stay east, book a place you can reach on foot from a light rail stop, and confirm your route with the property before arrival.

Food on the East side is mostly Palestinian: hummus and falafel shops, grill houses, kebab stalls, bakeries selling sesame bread and pastries, and sweet shops with knafeh. Around Damascus Gate and Salah al-Din Street you can eat cheaply and well through the day, and several places stay open into the evening.

Expect simple rooms, fast service and cash-friendly counters. Hummus and falafel are the safe, cheap default; grilled chicken, lamb and beef skewers are the main evening dishes. Vegetarian eating is easy — most of the menu is pulses, vegetables, bread and olive oil — and seafood is rare this far inland.

Alcohol is limited outside hotel restaurants, and many places close for Friday prayers and on Jewish holidays. During Ramadan, daytime opening shifts; during Jewish holidays, some West Jerusalem places close instead. Carry cash in small notes.

The light rail is the simplest link between the East and West sides; it runs along the seam of the two halves of the city and connects the Old City area with the central West Jerusalem streets. Buy a rechargeable card or a single ticket and validate it before boarding.

Arab bus stations serve the northern and southern suburbs and the West Bank, and city buses cover the main East Jerusalem streets. Services are reduced on Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays, so check the day's timetable rather than assuming a normal schedule.

On foot is often fastest inside the Old City and around the Mount of Olives, but the ground is steep and the lanes are uneven. Taxis and ride-hailing work, though pick-up points near the gates can be awkward. Allow extra time whenever a closure or demonstration is reported.