Sardinia: visitor guide

Sardinia is a whole region, not a single site, so there is no entry ticket and no opening hours. What you pay for is transport, accommodation and the handful of places that do charge: archaeological sites such as the nuraghi, some caves and a few marine reserves.

The season runs roughly from Easter to October. Ferry and flight schedules thin out from November to March, and many coastal hotels, beach clubs and restaurants close for the winter. Inland towns stay open year-round.

By air, Sardinia has three main airports: Cagliari in the south, Olbia in the northeast and Alghero in the northwest. All take flights from mainland Italy and from several European cities, with more routes in summer than in winter. From Rome, the flight is short; from Milan, similar.

By sea, ferries run from Civitavecchia (the port for Rome), Genoa, Livorno and Piombino to Olbia, Porto Torres, Cagliari and Arbatax. Crossings range from a few hours on fast ships to overnight on conventional ones. Overnight sailings save a hotel night and arrive in the morning.

Once you are on the island, a car is the practical choice. Trains and buses connect the main towns, but the coves, mountain roads and inland villages that make the trip worthwhile need four wheels. Book a car early for July and August.

The best window is mid-May to mid-June and September. The sea is warm enough to swim, ferries and flights are running in full, and prices sit below the summer peak. September adds warm water and a quieter coast as Italian families go back to school.

July and August are hot, busy and expensive. This is when Italians take their own holidays, so beaches fill and room rates climb. If August is your only option, book transport and lodging well in advance and expect to pay for it.

Spring brings wildflowers and green hills; autumn is mild and good for walking and wine. Winter is quiet, with many coastal places shut but the cities, including Cagliari, still alive.

Sardinia sits west of the Italian mainland, with Corsica just across the Strait of Bonifacio to the north. Within the island, Cagliari and Alghero are the two bases most visitors use: Cagliari for the south and its long beaches, Alghero for the northwest and its Catalan-influenced old town.

For a wider Italian trip, pair the island with the mainland by ferry or flight, or compare it with Sicily, the other big Mediterranean island.

Book ferries and rental cars early for summer; both sell out. Carry cash for small inland bars and beach kiosks. Drive carefully on mountain roads, which are narrow and winding.

Beach etiquette is simple: arrive early for parking, take your rubbish with you, and respect any reserve rules. Tipping is not expected in Italy; a coperto (cover charge) appears on restaurant bills, and rounding up or leaving €1–2 a person is enough for good service.

Learn a few Italian phrases; English is common in tourist areas but thinner inland. The emergency number is 112.