Getting around Egypt: trains, buses, driving and domestic flights

Egypt is long and thin: the Nile Valley runs about 900 km from Cairo to Aswan, and the Red Sea and Sinai sit off to the east. That shape decides everything. If you have 7–10 days, fly the long legs and spend your time in Luxor, Aswan and Cairo. If you have two weeks or more, the sleeper train and a Nile cruise replace flights and hotel nights at similar total cost.

Distances are short on the map but slow on the ground. Road transport between Cairo and Luxor takes 9–11 h by day train and longer by bus, so an overnight service is the only way to move without losing daylight. Within cities, traffic, not distance, sets the time: allow 45–90 min by road from Cairo airport to downtown or Giza.

The Watania sleeper is the classic Cairo–Luxor–Aswan service. It leaves Cairo in the evening and arrives in Luxor around breakfast, which saves a hotel night and a day of travel. Cabins are small but clean enough, with dinner and breakfast included in the double-cabin fare of about US$100–130 per person. Book directly with Watania or through a known agent; peak-season berths sell out weeks ahead, especially around Christmas, New Year and Easter.

Egyptian National Railways day trains are far cheaper: EGP 300–1,500 depending on class, with the Talgo and VIP services noticeably better than ordinary second class. The run along the Nile is scenic in daylight. Foreign travellers are sometimes steered toward particular trains or told only certain services are available to them — check the ENR app or the station ticket office rather than a tout. Alexandria is a straightforward 2–3 h train from Cairo and is the easiest rail trip in the country.

There is no national rail pass sold to visitors. Buy point-to-point tickets, and buy them a day or two ahead for the Luxor–Aswan and Cairo–Alexandria legs in high season.

Long-distance coaches cover what the railway does not: the Red Sea coast, Sinai, Siwa and the oases. They are cheap and reasonably comfortable on the main routes, but schedules are thin on desert links and night driving carries real risk. For Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh and Dahab, a flight is often worth the extra cost if your time is short.

Minibuses and shared taxis fill the gaps between towns and are the local norm in Upper Egypt and the oases. They leave when full, so build in slack. On the Aswan–Abu Simbel road, private cars and small groups have historically travelled in escorted convoys with early-morning departures — check the current rule with your hotel or operator, as it changes.

For Siwa and the western oases, the bus from Cairo is the standard budget option at 8–10 h; a car with a driver costs US$40–100 a day and lets you stop at the desert sights on the way.

Uber and Careem are the default in Cairo and Alexandria. Fares run EGP 60–250 for most cross-city trips, the price is fixed before you get in, and you avoid the negotiation that comes with street taxis. Pickup points at the pyramids, the Grand Egyptian Museum and the airports are restricted to marked zones, so follow the app pin rather than waving a car down.

The Cairo Metro is the fastest way across the city when traffic seizes up, at EGP 10–20 a ride. Women-only carriages are marked and widely used. Rush hour is genuinely crushing, so avoid 07:30–09:30 and 16:00–19:00 if you can. The monorail adds links to the new administrative capital and parts of east Cairo.

In Luxor, Aswan, Hurghada and Dahab, most trips are short: caleches, tuk-tuks, local taxis and hotel shuttles. Agree the fare before you set off, or use an app where one operates. In Luxor, the West Bank and East Bank are joined by a public ferry and by private boats; the ferry is cheap and runs through the day.

You do not need a car in Egypt. Self-drive makes sense only for specific trips: the desert highways to Siwa or the oases, or a loop between Red Sea towns. Inside Cairo and Alexandria it is a liability — dense traffic, weak lane discipline and hard parking. An International Driving Permit plus your home licence is the usual requirement; check with the rental company before booking.

Most visitors who want private transport hire a car with a driver instead, at US$40–100 a day. That covers day trips to Saqqara, Dahshur and Memphis from Cairo, the Abu Simbel road from Aswan, and oasis circuits. Agree in advance what the price includes: fuel, tolls, waiting time, parking and the driver's meals. A written message thread is enough.

On desert roads, fuel up when you can, carry water, and avoid driving after dark — unlit trucks and animals on the road are the main hazard.

A 3–4 night cruise between Luxor and Aswan is transport and accommodation in one. It stops at Edfu and Kom Ombo without daily packing, and the boat class sets the price: roughly US$300–1,500 per person full board. Cheap boats cram excursions into the middle of the day when it is hottest; check the excursion plan and whether guiding is included before you book.

Dahabiyas are small sailing boats, typically 4–5 nights between Esna and Aswan, at US$1,200–3,000 per person. They moor in quiet spots and carry fewer guests. They are wind-dependent, and a tug is used when the wind drops, so the schedule can shift.

Friday is the weekend day, with Saturday for offices, so Friday transport and site crowds differ from the rest of the week. Book long legs around public holidays and Ramadan, when timetables and opening hours can shorten.

Carry small notes for toilets, porters and drivers; attendants at sites expect EGP 10–20. Keep your passport with you on trains and flights, and keep a photo of it on your phone. Mobile data makes ride-hailing and rail apps work smoothly — an Egyptian SIM or eSIM is cheap and worth buying on arrival.