First time in Edinburgh? What to know before you go

Edinburgh rewards walking. The Old Town runs from the castle down the Royal Mile to Holyrood, and most first-trip sights sit on or beside that spine. Give the castle a half-day with a timed ticket, then walk downhill rather than up.

For a view without a ticket, the climb up Arthur's Seat in Holyrood Park takes roughly 45–60 minutes from the palace car park and is free. Calton Hill is the shorter option, about 10 minutes uphill from the east end of Princes Street, with the city skyline and the Forth beyond.

Museums are the rain plan. The National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street and the National Gallery on the Mound are free to enter, so a wet afternoon costs nothing but time. Book a Highland or Loch Lomond day tour only if you have a spare day; they leave early and return in the evening.

The centre splits into the Old Town, on the ridge from the castle to Holyrood, and the New Town, the Georgian grid north of Princes Street Gardens. Waverley station sits in the valley between them, so most first-trip hotels are within a 15-minute walk of both.

Leith, the old port, is about 3 km north-east of the centre; a tram or bus takes roughly 20 minutes. The airport is about 13 km west, with tram and bus links to the centre in around 30 minutes.

Book the castle and any tour before you travel, especially in summer and August. Accommodation prices climb sharply during the festivals, so reserve early or shift your dates to late May, June or September.

Wear shoes for cobbles and steps; the Old Town is uneven and some closes are steep. Weather changes fast, so carry a light waterproof rather than an umbrella in wind. Cards work almost everywhere, but keep a little cash for small shops.

Tipping is modest: around 10% in restaurants if service is not already included, and optional for taxis. Tap water is safe to drink. Buses and the tram take contactless bank cards, which is the simplest way to pay for a single journey.

May to September gives the longest days and the best odds for outdoor plans; June evenings stay light very late. July and August are warmest but busiest, and August brings the festival crowds and the highest room rates of the year.

Spring and autumn are quieter and cheaper, with shorter daylight and more rain risk. Winter is dark by mid-afternoon but the Christmas market and Hogmanay draw crowds, and indoor sights stay open. Whatever the month, plan one indoor pick as a backup.

Trains from London King's Cross to Edinburgh Waverley run on the East Coast Main Line and take roughly 4 h 30; advance tickets are much cheaper than walk-up fares. Waverley is central, so you can walk to most Old Town and New Town hotels.

From Edinburgh Airport, the tram and the airport bus both reach the city centre in about 30 minutes. Within the city, buses and the tram cover the centre and Leith, and contactless cards work on board. A car is a liability in the centre; hire one only if you are heading to the Highlands afterwards.