Lincoln Park-Old Town, Chicago: neighborhood guide

Lincoln Park and Old Town sit on the North Side, roughly between North Avenue and Diversey Parkway, a few minutes inland from Lake Michigan. The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 stopped around Fullerton Avenue, so much of the housing stock dates from the three decades after it — brick three-flats, greystones and tree-lined side streets rather than towers.

Lincoln Park is the wealthier, more collegiate half. DePaul University keeps a student population in the bars and cafés, and Armitage and Halsted carry a run of boutiques. Old Town, just south, is older and more mixed: the Old Town Triangle Historic District keeps its pre-fire street pattern, St. Michael's Church survived the fire, and the neighbourhood's beatnik and folk-club past gave way to two of the city's best-known stages, Steppenwolf and The Second City.

The park itself is the reason many people choose this area. It runs for several kilometres along the lake and holds the free Lincoln Park Zoo, the Lincoln Park Conservatory, the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, playing fields and a long lakefront path for cycling and running. North Avenue Beach is the busiest stretch of sand in the city in summer.

The trade-off is distance from the downtown sights. This is a residential district that happens to have a major park, not a sightseeing hub, and it empties out at night compared with the Loop or River North.

Yes, if you want space, quiet and the lake, and you are happy to ride the L into the centre. Families do well here: the zoo, the beach, the conservatory and the nature museum are all free or cheap and within walking distance of most hotels. Couples and solo travellers who have already seen the Loop often prefer it for the same reason.

No, if this is a two- or three-night first trip. Chicago's headline sights — the Art Institute, Millennium Park, the architecture boat tours, the Magnificent Mile — cluster downtown and in Near North, and you would spend 30–50 minutes a day commuting each way. For those trips, base in the Loop or Near North and visit Lincoln Park as a half-day.

Hotel supply is thin compared with downtown: a handful of mid-range and upscale properties near Clark Street and North Avenue, plus apartment-style stays. Expect to pay less than equivalent downtown rooms in most seasons, but check dates around DePaul graduation, the Chicago Marathon and summer festival weekends, when rates jump.

The area is generally safe by big-city standards, including at night around the theatres and the main commercial streets. As anywhere in Chicago, use ordinary caution after dark on quiet residential blocks and around the park after closing hours.

Old Town's Wells Street strip is the densest eating area: pubs, pizza, Mexican, Thai and brunch places, plus the famous comedy club and theatre crowds before and after shows. Lincoln Park's Halsted and Armitage streets lean toward cafés, bakeries and mid-range restaurants serving the student and young-professional trade. Clark Street between the two has a long run of bars and casual kitchens.

Deep-dish and thin-crust pizza, Chicago-style hot dogs and Italian beef are all easy to find here, as are beer gardens in summer. Budget roughly US$15–30 for a casual main and US$50–90 per person for a sit-down dinner with drinks, before tax and an 18–22% tip. Reservations help on weekend evenings and before theatre curtain times.

For groceries and self-catering, there are supermarkets and small markets along Clark Street and near the DePaul campus.

By train: the CTA Red Line stops at Clark/Division, Armitage and Fullerton, all within the district; the Brown Line serves Armitage and Fullerton on the western edge. From the Loop it is roughly 15–25 minutes depending on your start point. Fares are paid with a Ventra card or contactless tap; check current fares.

From the airports: O'Hare (ORD) connects by the Blue Line with a transfer to the Red Line, or by car in about 30–50 minutes outside rush hour. Midway (MDW) is usually a car or rideshare trip of similar length. Taxis and rideshares are plentiful; the CTA is cheaper but slower with luggage.

On foot and by bike: this is one of the better districts in Chicago for walking. The lakefront trail runs the length of the park and connects north to Lakeview and south toward Navy Pier and the Loop. Divvy bike-share docks are scattered along Clark Street and the park.

By car: driving is the weak point. Many residential streets require permits, and hotel valet or garage parking commonly runs US$40–70 a night. If you are only visiting the city, leave the car at home.