First time in Chiang Mai? What to know before you go

Chiang Mai rewards a slow first day. The old city is a square of moat and wall with the densest cluster of temples, and you can cross it on foot in about 30 minutes. Pick two or three temples rather than all of them, then spend the afternoon on food and markets.

For a first trip, the reliable picks are the old-city temple core, one mountain temple above the city, a cooking class, and a night market. Add a half-day at an elephant sanctuary only if you have checked its welfare policy first.

Chiang Mai sits in a river valley in northern Thailand, about 700 km north of Bangkok. The old city is the rectangle in the middle, ringed by a moat and the remains of a wall. The Ping river runs along its east side, and Nimmanhaemin (Nimman) is the modern quarter to the northwest, near the university.

Most first-timers stay in one of three areas: inside the old city for walkable temples and guesthouses, the Riverside strip for restaurants and river views, or Nimman for cafés, bars and condos. The airport is a short drive southwest of the old city, so no long transfer is needed.

Money: the baht is the currency. Cards work in hotels, malls and larger restaurants, but markets, songthaews and small kitchens are cash. ATMs charge a withdrawal fee per transaction, so take out larger amounts less often.

Getting around: red songthaews are shared pickups that run set routes; agree the fare before you get in. Ride-hailing apps work well in the city. Renting a scooter is common but only with a valid licence and a helmet, and police checkpoints do stop riders.

Temples: cover shoulders and knees, remove shoes before entering buildings, and do not point your feet at Buddha images. Some temples charge a small entry fee; others ask for a donation.

Etiquette: the head is considered the highest part of the body and the feet the lowest, so avoid touching heads and pointing feet. A wai greeting is polite but not expected from visitors.

November to January is the cool, clear window and the busiest one; book stays early and expect higher prices around holidays. February to April is the hot, smoky season, when burning in the region pushes air quality down and mountain views disappear. May to October is the green season: rain usually falls in short afternoon bursts, prices drop, and the countryside is at its best.

If smoke is a dealbreaker, plan the trip for November to January or shift to the Gulf or Andaman coast in the burning months. If you are here in the green season, keep a wet-weather backup list and treat rain as an afternoon event rather than a washed-out day.

Chiang Mai has its own airport with direct flights from Bangkok and other Thai cities, plus a few regional links. Flying from Bangkok takes about an hour and is the fastest option. Overnight trains and buses from Bangkok are cheaper and take roughly 10–13 hours; a sleeper berth on the train is the more comfortable of the two.

From the airport, a metered taxi or a ride-hailing car to the old city is a short hop; songthaews also wait outside and charge per person. If you arrive by train or bus, both stations sit east of the old city, a short ride away.