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Voykit pocket guide · Argentina
Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires runs late: do Recoleta, Plaza de Mayo and San Telmo on foot in the morning, rest through the afternoon, start dinner at 21:00 or later, and give the airport an hour by road rather than a train.
The city is big, flat and made for long lunches and late dinners. The trips that go wrong hail unmarked cars at the airport, walk with a phone in hand on busy pavements, or plan a museum for a Monday or a protest day. Four barrios cover a first visit; Colonia in Uruguay and the day trips are a ferry away from one kept bed.
- Country
- Argentina
- Best months
- Mar · Apr · May · Jun · Jul · Aug · Sep · Oct · Nov
- Time zone
- America/Argentina/Buenos_Aires
- Stay
- 2 days: Recoleta morning, Plaza de Mayo and Café Tortoni, San Telmo afternoon
Checked 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change; anything marked (check) is not confirmed.
Essentials
- Currency
- ARS
- Money
- Cards are widely accepted in restaurants, hotels and shops; cash (pesos, and often US dollars) is still useful given how currency rules and exchange rates have shifted in recent years — confirm the current situation before you fly.
- Daily spend
- Budget ARS 40,000–80,000 excl. bed (prices move fast) · Mid ARS 80,000–180,000 excl. bed (prices move fast) · High ARS 180,000+ excl. bed (prices move fast) (estimate; check)
- SIM and data
- Buy an eSIM before you fly, or a SIM from a carrier store (Movistar, Claro, Personal) with your passport.
- Emergency
- Police 911 · Ambulance (SAME) 107 · Fire 100
- Plugs
- 220V; mostly Type C and Type I sockets (the three-flat-pin type used in Argentina). Bring a universal adapter.
- Tipping
- Around 10% in restaurants, appreciated but not automatic or obligatory; round up for taxis and tour guides.
- Water
- Tap water is generally safe to drink in the city; ask your hotel if unsure.
- Toilets
- Cafés, malls, museums and hotels; carry tissues as a backup.
What things cost
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Coffee (café con leche at a café) | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
| Asado or parrilla main course | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
| Empanada (each) | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
| Subte or bus ride (SUBE card) | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
| Short taxi or ride-hail ride across a barrio | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
| Museum or theatre-tour entry | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
| Tourist eSIM or SIM, about a week | 2026 estimate; confirm locally |
Desk estimates, checked 2026-09; check locally.
Get in
By air
- Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP)
- AEP to Recoleta or Palermo: an official taxi from the rank, 15–30 minutes across the city; the airport is inside the city, so a late landing still gets a ride.
- Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE, Ezeiza)
- EZE to Recoleta or Palermo: one official airport taxi or remise from the counter, about an hour; the risk is a driver from the hall, not the ride, and a delayed landing after midnight.
By rail and road
| Station | Serves | To the centre |
|---|---|---|
| Retiro long-distance bus terminal (Terminal de Ómnibus de Retiro) | Long-distance buses to destinations across Argentina and neighbouring countries | Short taxi or subte (Line C) ride to the historic centre |
| Retiro railway station | Commuter and regional trains north to the suburbs and Tigre | Short taxi or subte ride |
| Constitución station | Commuter trains south, including to La Plata | Taxi or subte (Line C) recommended over walking with bags |
| Puerto Madero / Dársena Norte ferry terminals | Ferries to Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo, Uruguay (Buquebus and other operators) | Walkable to much of the centre; taxi with bags |
Typical fares
- EZE to Recoleta or Palermo, official taxi/remise
- About an hour by road (2026 estimate; confirm the current fare at the counter)
- Taxi or ride-hail across a barrio
- 2026 estimate; confirm locally
Get around
Walk inside a barrio; take the subte, a bus (colectivo) or a taxi/ride-hail car between them. The subte is fast in the centre and north but does not reach every barrio; buses cover the gaps but are slower in traffic.
| How | Fare | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free | Inside Recoleta, Palermo, San Telmo and the historic centre |
| Subte (underground) | 2026 estimate; confirm locally, paid with a SUBE card | Fast trips along the main lines, especially Line D through Recoleta and Palermo |
| Colectivo (bus) | 2026 estimate; confirm locally, paid with a SUBE card | Routes the subte does not reach, including La Boca and Puerto Madero |
| Taxi | Metered; 2026 estimate, confirm locally | Late nights, bags, door-to-door trips |
| Ride-hailing (Uber, Cabify, DiDi) | Fixed in the app | The same trips as a taxi, with a recorded fare and driver |
| SUBE card | Rechargeable at kiosks and stations | Subte, bus and some train fares |
| Suburban trains (Mitre, Sarmiento, Roca, Belgrano lines) | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Day trips to Tigre, La Plata and other suburbs |
Fares are estimates; check before you ride.
- Passes
- No pass; a SUBE card is only worth it for several subte rides. Taxis have meters: check the fare and the route.
- Late at night
- The subte closes around 22:00–23:00 (check the line); taxis and ride-hailing run all night.
See and do
01Recoleta Cemetery at openingCementerio de la Recoleta
Marble mausoleums in narrow lanes, including Eva Perón's grave, before the tour groups arrive.
Hours: best At opening · Price: Free · Time: 45-75 min · -34.5876, -58.3931
02Plaza de Mayo and the Metropolitan CathedralCatedral Metropolitana
The square where Argentine history keeps happening, plus the church where Pope Francis served as archbishop.
Hours: best Weekday morning · Price: Free · Time: 20-40 min · -34.6083, -58.3731
03Teatro Colón guided tour
One of the world's noted opera houses, still close to its 1908 original condition.
Hours: best Book a slot a day or two ahead · Price: 2026 estimate; confirm locally · Time: About 50 min · -34.6010, -58.3832
04Caminito and La Boca's football historyCaminito
Colourful immigrant-era houses steps from Boca Juniors' stadium.
Hours: best Daytime, staying within the tourist blocks · Price: Free to walk; stadium tour extra · Time: 1-1.5 h · -34.6345, -58.3631
05San Telmo Market and the Sunday street fairMercado de San Telmo
A cast-iron 1897 market hall, at its liveliest (and most crowded) on Sunday.
Hours: best Weekday morning for quiet, Sunday for the fair · Price: Free to browse · Time: 30-75 min · -34.6186, -58.3725
06El Ateneo Grand Splendid
A 1919 theatre converted into a bookshop, stage curtain and boxes intact.
Hours: best Any time · Price: Free to browse · Time: 20-30 min · -34.5951, -58.3934
07Puerto Madero waterfront walkPuerto Madero
Converted docks, glass towers and the Puente de la Mujer footbridge.
Hours: best Late afternoon into evening · Price: Free · Time: 30-60 min · -34.6083, -58.3629
08Palermo parks and the Japanese GardenJardín Japonés
The city's biggest green space, with a calm formal garden inside it.
Hours: best Morning or late afternoon · Price: 2026 estimate for the garden; the wider parks are free · Time: 45-90 min · -34.5763, -58.4136
09An asado dinner
The centrepiece of Argentine food culture, best eaten late and unhurried.
Hours: best From 21:00 · Price: 2026 estimate; confirm locally · Time: 1.5-2.5 h
10A milonga or tango show
Either watch a polished dinner show or see porteños actually dance tango at a social milonga.
Hours: best Evening · Price: 2026 estimate; confirm locally · Time: 1.5-3 h
Hours and prices are desk estimates (checked 2026-09); anything marked (check) is not confirmed. Coordinates open in any map app.
Day trips
| Where | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Tigre delta | Suburban train, about 1 hour, then a boat | Half or full day |
| Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay | Fast ferry from Puerto Madero, about 1 hour | Full day or overnight |
| San Antonio de Areco | Car or bus, about 2 hours | Full day |
| La Plata | Train or car, about 1-1.5 hours | Full day |
| Montevideo, Uruguay | Direct ferry, about 2-3 hours, or ferry-plus-bus via Colonia | Best as an overnight, not a rushed day trip |
Eat
| Where | What · area | Price | Tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| Güerrín | Muzzarella or fugazzeta pizza slice · Avenida Corrientes | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Budget |
| Empanada shops and bakeries | Empanadas (beef, chicken, ham and cheese) · Citywide | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Budget |
| El Sanjuanino | Empanadas and tamales · Recoleta | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Budget |
| Choripán stands | Choripán (grilled sausage sandwich) · Street stalls, parks, football match days | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Budget |
| Café Tortoni | Coffee and churros · Avenida de Mayo | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Mid-range |
| La Biela | Coffee, medialunas, a light meal · Recoleta | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Mid-range |
| Neighbourhood parrillas | Grilled beef, a full asado spread · Citywide | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Mid-range |
| Don Julio | Bife de chorizo, provoleta, wine from the wall · Palermo Soho | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Splurge |
| Puerto Madero waterfront restaurants | Steak, seafood, wine · Puerto Madero | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Splurge |
Per person, one dish or one meal, 2026 estimate; confirm locally given how quickly prices move with inflation.
Sleep
| Band | Price a night | Where | What |
|---|---|---|---|
| budget | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | San Telmo, Congreso | Hostels, budget guesthouses |
| mid | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Recoleta | Apartment-style hotels, 3-4 star chains |
| mid | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Palermo Soho / Hollywood | Boutique and design hotels, serviced apartments |
| splurge | 2026 estimate; confirm locally | Recoleta, Puerto Madero | International chains, design hotels |
Per room per night in Argentine pesos, 2026 estimate; confirm locally given how fast prices move with inflation, and expect holiday periods to add a premium.
Phrase card
| English | Say or show |
|---|---|
| Hello | HolaOH-la |
| Thank you | GraciasGRA-syas |
| How much is this? | Cuánto sale esto?KWAN-to SA-le ES-to |
| Not spicy, please | No picante, por favorno pee-KAN-te por fa-VOR |
| Delicious! | Qué rico!keh REE-ko |
| The bill, please | La cuenta, por favorla KWEN-ta por fa-VOR |
| Please take me to this address | Lléveme a esta dirección, por favorSHEH-veh-meh a ES-ta dee-rek-see-OHN por fa-VOR |
| Stop here, please | Pare acá, por favorPA-reh a-KA por fa-VOR |
Etiquette, safety and scams
Etiquette
- Greetings: One kiss on the cheek is the normal greeting between acquaintances, including between men in some circles; a handshake is fine if you are unsure.
- Meal times: Lunch runs 13:00-15:00 and dinner rarely starts before 21:00; turning up at 19:00 for dinner often means an empty restaurant or a kitchen not yet open.
- Mate: If someone offers you a sip of mate from their shared gourd and straw, it is a social gesture — drink, say nothing, and pass it back; do not say "gracias" until you are finished with it, as that traditionally signals you are done.
- Tipping: A tip (propina) of around 10% is appreciated in restaurants but not obligatory or always added automatically; round up for taxis.
- Language: Argentine Spanish uses "vos" instead of "tú" and a distinctive "sh" sound for "ll" and "y"; locals are used to visitors using standard Spanish and will understand either.
- Churches and the cemetery: Dress modestly and keep your voice down in the cathedral and Recoleta Cemetery; do not touch or lean on tombs.
Red lines
- Do not photograph police, soldiers or protests at close range.
- Be quiet and dress modestly in churches and at the cemetery.
- Do not leave phones, bags or cameras on café tables or chairs near the street.
Scams and watch-outs
- Mustard or ketchup "accident" on your clothing followed by a helpful stranger — walk away and check your bag rather than stopping to clean up.
- Distraction pickpocket teams at the San Telmo Sunday fair and on crowded buses and subte carriages — keep bags zipped and in front.
- Street or informal cash-exchange offers that sound too good — use a licensed exchange house or bank and count every note.
- Taxis that quote a flat "special" fare instead of using the meter, or take a needlessly long route — use the official airport taxi/remise counter, or a ride-hailing app with a fixed fare.
- ATM "helpers" who offer to assist with a machine on the street — decline and use a machine inside a bank or mall.
One and two days
1 day
A stopover between flights or before heading onward. Skip: La Boca and Puerto Madero — both need a dedicated slot, not a rushed add-on.
- 09:00Plaza de Mayo and the cathedral
- 10:30Café Tortoni for coffee and churros
- 12:30San Telmo Market and Plaza Dorrego
- 15:30Recoleta Cemetery
- 17:30El Ateneo Grand Splendid
- 21:00Dinner in Palermo Soho
2 days
The core of a first visit
Day 1 — historic centre and Recoleta
- 09:00Plaza de Mayo and the cathedral
- 11:00Teatro Colón guided tour
- 13:00Pizza lunch on Avenida Corrientes
- 16:00Recoleta Cemetery and El Ateneo
- 21:00Dinner in Recoleta
Day 2 — San Telmo, La Boca, Palermo evening
- 09:30San Telmo Market
- 12:00Caminito and La Boca
- 15:00Puerto Madero waterfront walk
- 18:00Rest, then Palermo parks and the Japanese Garden
- 21:30Asado dinner in Palermo Soho
Sources
Written by Voykit; facts cross-checked against these sources, last desk check 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change: check on the day.
- Buenos Aires City tourism: turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar/en
- Argentina — national tourism site: www.argentina.travel/
- Wikivoyage — Buenos Aires: en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Buenos_Aires
Pocket card
Cut along the border and keep it in your wallet. Show the local-script lines to a driver.
Buenos Aires
Lléveme a esta dirección, por favor
Please take me to this address
My hotel (write the name and address in the local script)
Take me to
- Cementerio de la RecoletaRecoleta Cemetery
- Catedral MetropolitanaMetropolitan Cathedral (Plaza de Mayo)
- CaminitoCaminito and La Boca
- Mercado de San TelmoSan Telmo Market
- Puerto MaderoPuerto Madero waterfront
- Jardín JaponésPalermo parks and the Japanese Garden
Most embassies are in Palermo or Recoleta; write your own embassy's 24-hour line below.
Show the address written out; drivers and ride-hail apps work from the street name and number.
Voykit · checked 2026-09
Printed from Voykit (/buenos-aires). Written by Voykit; checked 2026-09. Estimates only: confirm prices, hours and entry rules on the day.